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Showing posts with label Street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Street. Show all posts

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Takoyaki, the great street snack that's fun to make at home

takoyaki_500.jpg

[Note: I am reposting this article from the archives because of this paragraph. Several people have said in the comments that a Danish Æbleskiver or ebleskiver pan would be a good substitute for a takoyaki pan. You also see this mentioned on other sites. I finally got a chance to hold a real ebleskiver pan in my hands, and the bad news is that I am not sure it really would make a good substitute. The pan makes round cakes shaped similarly to takoyaki, for sure, but they are maybe 5 to 6 times the size of a takoyaki. So what you’d end up with are huge dumplings, which would need to be cooked a lot longer than takoyaki do. One of the main features of a takoyaki is the contrast between the slightly crispy outside which gradually softens under the sauce, and the just-cooked, piping hot creamy interior. I really don’t think you can get that with a huge er, ball. But if you have tried it for yourself, please let me know.

Another note: The video I mention below that was so great has been withdrawn due to copyright violation from YouTube. I’ll replace it with more complete instructions as soon as I can, but in the meantime you can still make takoyaki from the recipe.

This was originally published in July 2007.]

Takoyaki is the small, round cousin of okonomiyaki, and like okonomiyaki it originated in Osaka. It’s basically a flavored batter with a tiny piece of octopus (tako) inside, and is a quintessential street food snack.

Since my family is from the Tokyo-Saitama area (the Kanto area), this puts me at a bit of a disadvantage when it comes to making takoyaki. Sure I’ve had it dozens of times, but I can’t say I have had the chance of seeing it made really up close. With okonomiyaki, my ex-brother in law was from Osaka and we got to enjoy his okonomiyaki making prowess, which was one of his few redeeming features, quite a lot. But his tabletop cooking skills did not extend to takoyaki.

I do have some books and so on dedicated to the subject. But I didn’t really ‘get’ how to make takoyaki until I stumbled upon a terrific how-to video. It’s far better than anything I can come up with myself, so I would simply like to transcribe and translate it for your benefit, with my notes. The recipe and method described turn out terrific takoyaki - piping hot, slightly crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside.

takoyaki-ki.jpg

Takoyaki making is quite time consuming, and the little balls are best eaten while piping hot, so I recommend a tabletop model over a takoyaki plate you put on the stovetop. Also note that if you have an electric, ceramic top or induction range (as I do), a regular takoyaki plate will not function properly since there won’t be enough contact surface. My takoyaki maker is a fairly inexpensive single-purpose electric model. You can also get fancier models with interchangeable plates for grilling, teppanyaki, etc besides the takoyaki plate.

Takoyaki makers are available at Japanese-oriented electronic or housewares stores. Cheap ones are also available on eBay, but be aware that most are Japanese 100W - 50/60hz models, which will not work as-is in Europe. They will work on U.S. 110W but could potentially be a fire hazard, so for safety you should use them with a transformer. (If you’re buying a takoyaki maker in Tokyo, be sure to let the salesperson know you will be using it overseas. If you’re shopping in Akihabara they’re used to dealing with this situation.)

It’s generally not recommended to use takoyaki plates on a tabletop gas cooker by the way, because the plate can trap heat underneath and potentially damage the cooker surface. So if you do get a takoyaki plate, just use it on your stovetop.

A brush or a wad of cotton wool or paper towel to oil the takoyaki plate. You can get a dedicated takoyaki brush, but I just use a makeshift paper towel ‘brush’. A wooden skewer or two to flip the takoyaki. Never use metal skewers, which can damage the surface of the plate. Cocktail sticks are not good either since your hand will be too close to the hot surface of the griddle.A small ladle to pour the batter. So, here is the video that teaches you all! It’s a segment from an NHK program called _Takmeshite gatten_ (????????), which sort of means “Try it out and be convinced”, a show that tries out various theories and methods (not just related to cooking) and sees what the best way is. Anyway, watch the video all the way through first. The title of the segment is “Make pro quality takoyaki at home!”

(The video has been removed since it’s no longer functioning. I’ll replace it with my own instructions as soon as possible. You can still use the recipe below though.)

This batter is really easy to make, and yields great takoyaki! No fiddling about with grated nagaimo or anything, and no need to buy special okonomiyaki flour. They say it’s for 4 people. I’ve found makes about 60 balls in total (allowing for some mistakes).

300g / 10.5 oz hakuriki ko (low-gluten white flour): use cake flour (preferred) or all-purpose flour3 eggs1 liter (4 1/4 cups) of ice water, with the cubes strained out before adding to the mix3 grams salt (about 2/3 tsp.) 1/2 tsp. kombu dashi stock granules1/2 tsp. katsuo dashi stock granules 2 tsp. soy sauce

My adjustments: I made dashi stock using the cold water method instead of using the dashi stock granules, and increased the salt to 5 grams to compensate. The dashi was ice cold from being in the fridge anyway, so I just put in a few ice cubes. The water/dashi is ice cold to prevent the gluten in the flour from developping. If you are using dashi granules, you can just use a teaspoon of one type (such as Hondashi (which is a brand name by the way)).

To make the batter: Beat the eggs, and mix together with the ice water and dashi stock granules (or ice cold dashi) and soy sauce. Add the flour, and mix together lightly. Don’t worry about getting all the lumps out - it’s best not to overmix the batter. So easy!

You just need a small amount of boiled octopus legs. It should ideally be cut up so each piece gets a bit of the suckers, for texture.

Now, call me blasphemous, but I do not think you necessarily need octopus to make takoyaki. You just need a little bit of something to provide a change in texture. I have used things like cut up chikuwa, squid legs, or (gasp, horror) wieners instead of the octopus. (My experimentation in this area came about when the fishmonger refused to sell me a single octopus leg, and I didn’t want to deal with a whole ugly octopus.) Whatever you use, just have it cut up into little squares and ready to go.

You need some flavorless cooking oil to oil the takoyaki pan. I use peanut oil.

The points:

Heat up the pan before starting.Oil the little sections (they are using a dedicated oiling brush, but you can use a wadded up paper towel or a wad of cotton wool held with chopsticks. Be sure to oil the top of the pan too.) Pour in the batter - don’t worry if it overflows a bit. You don’t need to fill all the compartments either (I find that dealing with 14 or 15 compartments at a time is my maximum. If you are just starting out, try about 8 or 10. For some reason, all Japanese takoyaki makers have 18 compartments.) As soon as the batter is poured, drop in the octopus bits, one per compartment.When the outsides are sort of dried out, cut through the connected bits (where the batter ran out) and turn them over about 90 degrees with the wooden skewer. If you turn them too early the takoyaki will collapse and turn into a sad, ragged lump of goo. It takes a bit of practice to gauge when to turn the balls over, but you soon get the hang of it. Turn the balls over all the way. Keep flipping then round and round with the skewer.If the ball has a little hole, add a tiny bit of batter to an empty section and put the ball hole-side down into the batter (around 2:20-2:40) The takoyaki are done with they feel lighter when you poke and turn them with the skewer, and are lightly browned a a bit crispy on the outside.The key is for the takoyaki to be hollow on the inside. This allows the insides to steam, which cooks them nicely while retaining a creamy texture.

It only takes them a minute or so to make the takoyaki in the video, but it is edited down. I find it takes about 7-8 minutes per batch. Your results may vary.

Serve immediately with chopsticks or cocktail sticks, and dipping sauces.

When you buy takoyaki, they usually come smothered in okonomiyaki or ‘Bulldog’ sauce, sometimes mayonnaise, bonito flakes, powdered aonori (a green nori) and pickled red ginger. But I really like the less-is-more suggestions. They have three dipping sauces:

Okonomiyaki or ‘Bulldog’ sauce, the conventional dipping sauce. You can mix this with mayonnaise. (My suggestion is to buy either one type of ‘Bulldog’ sauce and adjust if necessary for things like okonomiyaki and takoyaki instead of buying a bunch of sauces that are labeled as okonomiyaki sauce and so on. They all taste fairly similar.) Nihai-zu: 150ml (about 2/3 cup) dashi stock, 1 Tbs. soy sauce, 2 tsp. vinegar. This is my favorite - the slight sourness with the saltiness is very refreshing.Osumashi (clear soup): 500ml (a bit more than 2 cups) dashi stock, 1/2 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. soy sauce. This is good if it’s ice cold, to counteract the piping hot takoyaki.

You could also try: regular American ‘steak sauce’ mixed with a bit of mayonnaise; oyster sauce; sweet chili sauce; barbeque sauce; even olive oil mixed with salt. Experiment!

takoyaki2_500.jpg

Once you have had freshly made, hot off the griddle takoyaki, you will never buy those frozen dough balls again. Cold takoyaki can be reheated, but really - they are so much superior freshly made, that I never bother to make extra.

I do hope the video doesn’t get taken down - if it is I’ll replace the instructions here accordingly. In the meantime, watch it a few times and witha little practice, you’ll be on your way to takoyaki perfection! (Footnote: At the end of the video, the celebrities each write a little poem (haiku-like but not quite) about takoyaki. A bit corny perhaps, but it made me think about writing little poems to some of my memorable meals!)

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Friday, January 27, 2012

Asian Souper Bowls (my Wall Street Journal article)

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January 22, 2012Asian Souper Bowls (my Wall Street Journal article)
WSJ Asian souper bowl

Last week was kind of a neat media week. Along with the Asian tofu story coming out in Martha Stewart Living magazine, the Wall Street Journal ran a piece I wrote on Asian soups. Why is the Wall Street Journal doing food? It’s been doing it for years. In fact, the Journal regularly published great food stories. Some are reportorial and business-y while others are practical with recipes.  

I was assigned to write about wintry Asian soups so I came up with a concept built on a master chicken stock recipe and four (4) soup recipes based on that stock. The pan-Asian collection of soups included Chinese hot-and-sour soup; Thai tofu, pork, and seaweed soup; Vietnamese chicken and cellophane noodle soup; and Japanese gyoza dumplings in smoky chicken soup.  The Chinese and Thai recipes are from the upcoming Asian Tofu cookbook so if you're inclined, give them a try!

If you subscribe to the Journal, “Asian Souper Bowls” ran as the cover story in the Journal’s weekend “Off Duty” section and jumps to the second page.  If you don’t subscribe, you may be able to read the article online. (WSJ has a tiered subscription so there may not be a way for you to access the story. If you can't see Crystal's workaround below. She shared a link through GoogleNews!)

As a teaser to the story, the Journal also had me do a Skype video interview on Friday's "Lunch Break" live news show. 

 

So on Tet Eve, I wanted to wrap up the Year of the Rabbit with by sharing this post. You may or may not have a big to-do for tomorrow, but maybe you’ll brew up a cozy pot of soup in the Year of the Dragon!

Chuc Mung Nam Moi
Gong Xi Fa Cai
Gong Hay Fat Choi

(Happy New Year in Vietnamese, Mandarin, and Cantonese)

 

Posted in Asian food news, Recipes: All, Recipes: Chinese, Recipes: One-Dish Meals, Recipes: Soup, Recipes: Thai, Recipes: Tofu |

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Comments Asian Souper Bowls (my Wall Street Journal article)
WSJ Asian souper bowl

Last week was kind of a neat media week. Along with the Asian tofu story coming out in Martha Stewart Living magazine, the Wall Street Journal ran a piece I wrote on Asian soups. Why is the Wall Street Journal doing food? It’s been doing it for years. In fact, the Journal regularly published great food stories. Some are reportorial and business-y while others are practical with recipes.  

I was assigned to write about wintry Asian soups so I came up with a concept built on a master chicken stock recipe and four (4) soup recipes based on that stock. The pan-Asian collection of soups included Chinese hot-and-sour soup; Thai tofu, pork, and seaweed soup; Vietnamese chicken and cellophane noodle soup; and Japanese gyoza dumplings in smoky chicken soup.  The Chinese and Thai recipes are from the upcoming Asian Tofu cookbook so if you're inclined, give them a try!

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Events

Splendid Table Radio Interview
Sat, 3/3/2012
Check your local NPR station for times. We're talking tofu.

Asian Tofu Book Talk
Tues, 3/6/2012, 7:30pm
A little tofu tasting too!
Bookshop Santa Cruz, CA

Asian Tofu Workshop
Tues, 3/13/2012, 6:30-9pm
Demo class w/ participation
Draeger’s San Mateo, CA

Asian Tofu Book Talk
Sat, 3/24/2012, 3-4pm
Celebrate spring: Think, talk & taste tofu!
Omnivore Books, SF, CA

Int'l Assoc. of Cul. Prof.
Thurs, Mar 29 - Tues, Apr 2
Annual Conference, NYC

Asian Tofu Workshop
Sun, 4/1/2012, 6pm-10pm
Hands-on class
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Saturday, May 7, 2011

Thai Street Food

Fall into Cooking Featured Recipe from David Thompson's Thai Street Food: Fried Chicken and Squid Rice Noodles

When I first ate these krua gai noodles I wasn’t convinced. I had so many other noodle dishes that enticed and pleased, some of which are also in Thai Street Food. Now I am addicted to the winning simplicity of them.

In Bangkok’s Chinatown there are many versions, some with prawns, others use pork but mostly squid and chicken is the order of the day.

As you walk down the narrow alleys of this quarter, away from the busy main streets, it’s like stepping back in time. It’s still bustling, though, with the air filled with spices, chatter and the scraping clatter of smoking woks.

To make the best of this recipe you’ll need to season your wok. It imparts a smoky, slightly metallic tang to the dish: a lingering sign of success is the breath of the wok. All you need to do is prime the wok by burning it, scorching it over a flame and turning it to ensure that every part is charred. Wash out the wok then return it to the heat and it's ready. --David Thompson

Serves 2

Ingredients

3 oz chicken breast fillet, with or without skin as preferred
a drizzle of light soy sauce, plus 2 tablespoons extra
1 garlic clove, peeled
pinch of salt
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 oz cured squid (plaa meuk chae) or fresh squid or cuttlefish, scored and finely sliced
ground white pepper
1–2 teaspoons preserved Chinese vegetable (dtang chai), rinsed and drained
2 heaped tablespoons chopped spring (green) onions
2 heaped tablespoons chopped Asian celery (optional)
8 oz fresh wide rice noodles
1–2 teaspoons dark soy sauce, to taste
good pinch of white sugar
2 eggs, ideally duck eggs
1 cup loosely packed, very coarsely cut Chinese lettuce
pinch of deep-fried garlic
1–2 tablespoons chopped coriander
sauce Siracha, to serve

Slice the chicken and briefly marinate it in a drizzle of light soy sauce. Crush the garlic to a somewhat coarse paste with the saltâ??either by pounding it using a pestle and mortar or finely chopping it with a knife.

Heat the wok then add 2 generous tablespoons of the oil. Add the chicken and the cured squid and lightly stir-fry until golden and almost cooked. Stir in the garlic paste, a pinch of white pepper, the preserved Chinese vegetable and 1 tablespoon each of the spring onions and Asian celery (if using). By now most of the oil should have been absorbed; drain off any excess.

Pull apart the rice noodle strands and add to the wok, spreading them over the contents of the wok and onto the surface of the wok itself. Leave undisturbed for a moment--up to 30 seconds--then gently begin to stir and shuffle the noodles and the wok. It is important not to break the noodle strands while doing this. Drizzle the noodles with the extra 2 tablespoons of light soy sauce, the dark soy sauce and the sugar. Sprinkle them with most of the remaining Asian celery and spring onions, along with a good pinch of white pepper. Turn up the heat slightly to caramelize the noodles, stirring occasionally and carefully. After a minute or two, push the noodles to one side of the wok and add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Turn up the heat, crack in the eggs and fry until they are just beginning to set and the edges of the whites are beginning to brown. Lightly break up the eggs, then gently stir and fold in the noodles, simmering them for a few minutes so that they caramelize and char slightly. Finish with the Chinese lettuce and the remaining Asian celery.

Serve the noodles sprinkled with the deep-fried garlic, the remaining spring onions, the coriander and a pinch of white pepper.

Accompany with a bowl of sauce Siracha.



Price: $60.00


Click here to buy from Amazon

Thursday, January 27, 2011

A Little Love from Wall Street Journal Asia, and the Holiday Nostalgia Train


What a nice pre-Christmas gift! Appetite for China was just featured in the Wall Street Journal Asia's round-up of food bloggers around Asia, along with Robyn Eckhardt from Eating Asia, Andrea Nguyen from Viet World Kitchen, Makiko Itoh from Just Bento, Mark Lowerson from Sticky Rice, and many others. We each recommended a dish we "can't live without" in cities across Asia (my city being Beijing.)

Check out the WSJ's slideshow here!

In other news, I spent a few hours last Sunday indulging in a non-food-related interest: checking out relics of bygone New York. Every year around the holidays the MTA digs into its collection of old train cars that ran way back in the day, and takes them for a few spins on Sundays in December to keep them in working condition. This being my first holiday season in New York in three years, riding a Nostalgia Train was high on my must-do list.

This year the trains run on the F/M line from 2nd Ave to Queens Plaza. According to the conductors and various signage on the train itself, the train cars date anywhere from 1930 to 1940, and are decorated with ads from that period (though there were a few anachronisms, such as a presidential campaign ad for Kennedy.) The seats were low and narrow, the train cars themselves were musty and loud, but they seemed just as fast as some of the older models the MTA still runs. 

I liked the subway courtesy signs. Nobody puts up signs like these anymore.

Vintage food ads were pretty prominent throughout the train. I haven't been to the Transit Museum in Brooklyn yet, but hopefully some of these have a more permanent home there.

The last day for the Nostalgia Train to run is this coming Sunday, Dec. 26 (check the schedule here). If you're staying in town for the holidays, or happen to be visiting New York, this is a worthwhile little excursion. Granted, what New York is doing with its trains really isn't spectacular or unique among American cities (after all, San Francisco has vintage trolleys from around the world as a permanent fixture on the F line). But it was a ride on which, for once, everyone on board seemed happy and excited to be there. Complaints about delays and fare hikes could wait for another day. To an often-jaded commuter in New York, this was a neat little celebration of one of the oldest, extensive, and most used subway lines in the world.

Happy holidays, and thanks for reading Appetite for China for another year!



View the original article here