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Showing posts with label Cookbooks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cookbooks. Show all posts

Thursday, October 24, 2013

Vietnamese Cookbooks List

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October 15, 2013Vietnamese Cookbooks ListVietnamese cookbooks

Itprobably doesn’t surprise you to know that Vietnamese cookbooks make up a fairshare of my cookbook collection. I've been collecting them for decades,gleaning them not just for recipes and techniques, but also social history.That’s how I justify owning books written in English, Vietnamese, French,Chinese, and Japanese. (I can barely read Chinese characters and forget about Japanese!)

Partof the original VWK website constructed in 2002 was a page with short recaps of English-languageVietnamese cookbooks that I owned. I pulled down the page when I switched to ablog format in 2007 because I didn’t think people were all that interested. Noone seemed to notice until this year. Rick from the UK and another gal emailedabout the list. “Where did it go? Would you publish it again?” they asked.

Iput their request on my to-do list and finally had time to work on it over theweekend. Here it is, with Vietnamese cookbooks that date back to 1968! I’ll tryto keep this list updated as I review more Viet cookbooks so bookmark thispage. Or, return to VWK and search for “Vietnamese cookbooks.” Hang on to your hat, this is a long list. 

Vietnamese Home Cooking (2012)
Charles Phan and Jessica Battilana
A great book for fans of Charles Phan, the Chinese-Vietnamese chef/restaurateurof the Slanted Door restaurant group in San Francisco. His debut cookbook,written as a collaboration with Jessica Battilana, includes many of the dishesserved at the restaurant (hello Slanted Door’s shaking beef!) as well as Cantonesedishes of his heritage. There are Thai recipes (his wife is Thai) as well asideas drawn from Japan. Techniques and recipes tend to be fussy, reflecting therestaurant’s kitchen, not that of Viet home cooks. More in this review of the book. I also madefresh bun rice noodles from Vietnamese Home Cooking too.

VietnameseStreet Food (2011)
Tracey Lister and Andreas Pohl
People are crazy for street food these days and Vietnam has much to offer. Inthis photogenic book, Tracey and her husband take to the streets. They live inHanoi and have documented the beloved recipes savored throughout the country. Therecipes are easy to follow if you’re familiar with Viet cooking and Asianingredients. Futher details are in this Q&A with Tracey on Vietnamesestreet food tips. For a sample recipe, try this vegan faux crab and ricenoodle soup (bun rieu cua chay).

Indochine:Baguette and Banh Mi (2011)
Luke Nguyen
I’m not one to say thatViet food is an offshoot of French cooking as Viet cooks are not one to kowtow. That said, it’s hard to avoid getting into the Franco spirit when you’relooking at colonial buildings in semi-decrepit states. This is Luke Nguyen’sthird book (his second solo work) and it parallels his television show. In thebook, he canvases traditional and modern Vietnamese food to paint apicture of timeless fusion cooking. He recounts interactions withVietnamese, French-Vietnamese, French, and Vietnamese-French people andincludes their recipes, which range from street food to fancy plated fare. Fromthat mix of content, you get an interesting global perspective of Vietnamesecuisine.

Appetitesand Aspirations in Vietnam (2011)
EricaPeters
If youyearn for a historic and rigorous look at the French colonial era in Vietnam, checkthis work by historian Erica Peters. It presents the push-pull dynamic of the colonialFrench-Viet relationship, all from the perspective of food.

The Songs ofSapa (2009)
Luke Nguyen
I met chef and restaurateur Luke Nguyen in Sydney in 2009 and he was beginning anew project – a food and travel television show. This book was the first ofseveral that he pumped out as works that accompany his series. The location photographyis compelling, though the recipe writing can challenge cooks who are not wellversed in Asian or Viet ingredients and cooking techniques. A beautifulpublication. The original book was released as The Songs of Sapa but it was reissued in 2011 as My Vietnam in the United States. I tried Luke’s recipe for roast pork here and was inspired to cookokra his way.

Secrets of the RedLantern: Stories and Recipes from the Heart (2008)
Pauline Nguyen and Luke Nguyen
A lovely book from the brother-and-sister team behind Red Lantern, a charminglychic Vietnamese restaurant in Sydney, Australia. It’s an interesting book for comparingand contrasting Vietnamese restaurant fare inside and outside of the motherland.If you’re interested in the Viet diaspora, this book spotlightsViet-Australians exceptionally well. For more, see this postor try this recipe for red rice.  

Wild, Wild East:Recipes and Stories from Vietnam (2008)
Bobby Chinn
Chef/restaurateur/travel television show host Bobby Chinn takes a brash andunnerving approach to getting recipes from folks in Vietnam. He distilled hisexperiences and insights into this book. Based in Hanoi, Bobby's work has nicelocation photography. The recipe collection includes many modern takes on oldfavorites. I included it in the 2008 round-upof notable Asian cookbooks. Bobby has smuggled Phu Quoc fish sauce in his luggage for me. What a friend!

Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors (2006)
Andrea Nguyen
My labor of love for several years, this is a collection of 175+ recipes thatpays homage to old-fashioned methods and classic Viet dishes yet providesreaders with instructions on how to prepare the delectable foods in a modernkitchen. Recipes cover the broad spectrum of foods, from the super simple (justa few ingredients needed) to more elaborate time-honored treats like banh chung (Tet sticky ricecakes) and banh nuong (moon cakes). For more details on my book, check this page.

Viet-cookbook-collage2
The Little Saigon Cookbook: Vietnamese Cuisine andCulture in Southern California's Little Saigon (2006)
Ann Le
Here's a book that covers Viet cooking as it is presented in Little Saigon, thelargest Vietnamese American enclave located in Westminster, California. Asouthern California resident, Ann works in the finance industry and has putlots of heart into this work in order to represent her community well. The useof olive oil in the some of the recipes, however, is a bit odd.

Quick& Easy Vietnamese: 75 Everyday Recipes (2005)
Nancie McDermott
This is part of publisher Chronicle Books' series of quick and easy ethniccookbooks. The books are not designed to be in-depth or comprehensive, butNancie is a veteran writer and you're in good hands. Her first work, RealThai (1992), anamazing book regional Thai cookbook that I still cook from.

A Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Family Recipes (2005)
Ha Roda
Like Ann Le's book above, this one presents Viet food as it is prepared in theVietnamese immigrant kitchen in America. Ha Roda is a media arts professionalbased in Los Angeles. She's not a professional food writer, but if you'refamiliar with Viet cooking or are a seasoned cook, you can follow her recipes.However, the use bouillon cubes, prepackaged seasoning mixes, and KitchenBouquet are rather disappointing, though a fair number of Viet American cooksuse those prepackaged ingredients. Hippocrene Books, the publisher, should havespent more on photography. The black and white images are unattractive.

Didier Corlou'sVietnamese Cuisine (2003)
Didier Corlou
French chef Corlou's cookbook contains gorgeous photography from Vietnam, wherehe was based as key staff person of the Sofitel hotels. He was formerly theexecutive chef at the Metropole in Hanoi. Corlou has an unending passion forVietnamese cooking (he's married to a Viet woman), and the book offerstraditional as well as modern recipes that he developed. The recipeinstructions are not in depth and somewhat hard to follow. However, it's asophisticated, lovely work. Pick up a copy at the Metropole in Hanoi. This bookisn't available online.  

VietnameseHome Cooking (2003)
Robert Carmack, Didier Corlou, Nguyen Thanh Van
A title in Periplus series on Asian home cooking, this work comes fromprofessional cooks based in Vietnam at the Hanoi Metropole Hotel. Carmack isthe professional writer. Beautiful photography, but the ingredients andinstructions aren't easily adapted to the American home kitchen. If you're aseasoned Asian cook, this title is worth having.

TheVietnamese Cookbook (2003)
Diana Tran
A nice small book written by a Vietnamese-American career woman who offers hercontemporary, time-saving approaches to putting Viet favorites on the table forher family. Theinstructions can be breezy so beginner cooks may have a hard time.

Lemongrassand Lime: New Vietnam Cooking (2001)
Mark Read
A book from London’s Bam-bou restaurant that focused on modern Vietnamese food.Beautiful photography, poorly laid-out design of recipes. The ingredients arelisted at the bottom of each page in a horizontal fashion. The recipes blendChinese, Thai and Vietnamese elements, which how the Bam-bou bills itself. Ah,that explains the use of kaffir lime among the book’s essential ingredientslisting. 

Pleasuresof the Vietnamese Table (2001)
Mai Pham
This second work from Mai Pham, a restauranteur in Sacramento, CA, was verywell received by both the LosAngeles Times and New York Times. The recipeswere developed from her travels and research in Vietnam. She gathered recipesand flavors from street-food hawkers and Viet home cooks. The instructions arewell written and as usual, Pham knows her stuff. For those who've traveled toVietnam, this may be a great book to remind them of their eating adventures. Itdoesn't mirror food from Viet-American kitchens, and that's not its objective.For overseas Vietnamese, this book offers great information on how food andculture are evolving in Vietnam. There's a nice discussion on herbs andingredients. Go to Pham's first book, The Best of Vietnamese and ThaiCooking or check herout at www.lemongrassrestaurant.com 

AuthenticVietnamese Cooking: Food from a Family Table (1999)
Corinne Trang
Not particularly authentic, as the name suggests. The author is CambodianChinese French, not Vietnamese. A lot of work went into this book, and Trang isa capable recipe writer, having worked in the test kitchen at Saveur magazine. Nonetheless, you comeaway wondering about how to best define authenticity. It's difficult tounderstand who the author is. It made me want Trang to pen a book on herexperiences growing up in France and eating/preparing ethnic Chinese-SoutheastAsian food there. 

Café Vietnam (1999)
Annabel Jackson
A nice little paperback with cool photos. The recipes are based on foodsprepared in Vietnam, not what's cooked in America. As a result, theingredients, flavors, etc. are not what you may expect or may have experiencedin Vietnamese American homes, restaurants and delis. This work is part of theConran Octopus 'Café' Cookbook series. 

TheFood of Vietnam: Authentic Recipes from the Ascending Dragon (1997) 
Trieu Thi Choi, Marcel Isaak
Based on 'old world' recipes from a Vietnam-based chef, this book is bestunderstood and used by people who are familiar with traditional Vietnamesecooking. Some of the ingredients, such as pork fatback, would put health-consciouscooks off. Sometimes the proportions for seasoning are heavy handed. My motherlikes the recipes because the Vietnamese author "speaks" to her.However, when Mom tried out one of the recipes, she cut out the fat and halvedthe seasonings. There's a nice history section in this book about traditionalfoodways. This work is part of a Periplus series of ethnic cookbooks. 

TheBest of Vietnamese and Thai Cooking (1996)
Mai Pham
Mai Pham owns Lemongrass restaurant in Sacramento, which offers diners Thai andVietnamese food. She's a competent cook who also does her research. This is anice book with traditional recipes. However, the inclusion of Thai recipes sortof makes things confusing. 

TheFlavours of Vietnam (1995,2002)
Meera Freeman, Le Van Nhan
From Australia comes this work by professional cookbook writer Freeman andrestaurant chef Le. There's little cultural information on the recipes, and themeasurements are in metric. However, if you're familiar with Viet cooking, thiswork is worth exploring. 

TheSimple Art of Vietnamese Cooking (1991) 
Binh Duong, Marcia Kiesel
Out of print but worth having on hand for the recipes, which blends traditionalViet methods with a skilled restaurateur's modern cooking knowledge. Read theinstructions carefully to make sure everything makes sense. No photosunfortunately. 

TheFoods of Vietnam (1989and 1999)
Nicole Routhier
One the first Vietnamese cookbooks in the U.S. Nicole Routhier is VietnameseFrench and was raised in Vietnam and Laos. NewYork Times food writerCraig Claiborne wrote the foreword. One of the oddities of this book is the useof olive oil as an ingredient. Cream is suggested as a substitute for coconutmilk. Perhaps because Routhier wrote the book in the 80s, when Asianingredients were not easily available. Reprinted in 1999 with a new cover, itstands out in terms of beautiful photography. 

Livingand Cooking Vietnamese: An American Woman's Experience (1990)
Paula Tran
For an interesting perspective, try this book of 80 recipes written by anAmerican woman who married a Vietnamese man. 

Cookingthe Vietnamese Way (1985)
Chi Nguyen, Judy Monroe
A very small collection of 24 recipes comprise this title. 

TheClassic Cuisine of Vietnam (1979and 1986)
Bach Ngo, Gloria Zimmerman
Probably the first Vietnamese cookbook printed in America after the massarrival of refugees. For Vietnamese cooks who came during the first wave, thisbook will remind them of the initial trials and tribulations of fixing foods oftheir homeland. Though some of the ingredients have since changed as moreauthentic ingredients are now available at Asian markets, the basic methods andideas for preparing Vietnamese food in an American kitchen still apply. 

Happyin My Stomach (1975)
Marjorie Doughty
This small spiral bound community cookbook contains recipes of super fresh Vietimmigrants to the U.S. who were staying at the Eglin Refugee Reception Centerin Florida in the spring and summer of 1975. It's a charming, sweet book thatoffers hand-drawn illustrations, short pieces on Viet and Chinese customs,along with recipes. If you're a cookbook collector or into tracing theevolution of Viet cooking in the States, this one is a must to have. 

VietnameseDishes (1973)
Duong Thi Thanh Lien
I found this book in Viet bookstore in San Jose, CA. The author, born in 1933,was a medical doctor and professor of medicine (pretty impressive for a womanat that time!) in Saigon. It is bilingual, with Vietnamese recipes on one pageand its English version on the other. Dr. Lien discusses life as during thevarious foreign occupations of Vietnam during the 20th century. Her writingoffers insight into how people cooked and ate in the pre-1975 era of Vietnam.Like Miller's book below, this has significant historic value. 

VietnameseCookery (1968)
Jill Nhu Huong Miller
Find and buy this book for its historic value. Born in Vietnam, the author wasa language instructor for the US Armed Forces. There's a certain Hawaiian touchbecause that's where the author conceived the book. Only a few recipes havebilingual Vietnamese English titles, requiring a little extra energy to figureout the original Viet equivalent. 

Where to buy these books? From brick-and-mortar bookstores, online retailers, wherever you find books! The out-of-print ones will take some searching. If you know of some worthy or obscure work that I've missed, shoot me a message.

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Comments Vietnamese Cookbooks List Vietnamese cookbooks

Itprobably doesn’t surprise you to know that Vietnamese cookbooks make up a fairshare of my cookbook collection. I've been collecting them for decades,gleaning them not just for recipes and techniques, but also social history.That’s how I justify owning books written in English, Vietnamese, French,Chinese, and Japanese. (I can barely read Chinese characters and forget about Japanese!)

Partof the original VWK website constructed in 2002 was a page with short recaps of English-languageVietnamese cookbooks that I owned. I pulled down the page when I switched to ablog format in 2007 because I didn’t think people were all that interested. Noone seemed to notice until this year. Rick from the UK and another gal emailedabout the list. “Where did it go? Would you publish it again?” they asked.

Iput their request on my to-do list and finally had time to work on it over theweekend. Here it is, with Vietnamese cookbooks that date back to 1968! I’ll tryto keep this list updated as I review more Viet cookbooks so bookmark thispage. Or, return to VWK and search for “Vietnamese cookbooks.” Hang on to your hat, this is a long list. 

Stay Connected                         Asian Tofu in the News"Informative, engaging, well written and researched, this is also the best book about tofu."
— Winnie Yang, The Art of Eating

"A whole cookbook devoted to tofu? Yes, please."
— Kate Williams,
Serious Eats 2012 Favorite Cookbooks

"Cooking with Tofu (Are You Serious?!)"
— Michael Rulhman on his tofu conversion

Book info, reviews, radio & TV . . .Classes & EventsHands-on @loveapplefarms, Santa Cruz
Sat, Oct 26, 12-4pm: Get Into the Viet Kitchen! {a few spots left}
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Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Cooking Light’s 7 Top Asian Cookbooks: Mine are included!

Cooking Light’s 7 Top Asian Cookbooks: Mine are included! - Viet World Kitchenwindow.fbAsyncInit = function() { FB.init( { apiKey: 'a279adbe87e2b3c505e777af99a5260d', xfbml: true } );};( function() { var e = document.createElement( 'script' ); e.async = true; e.src = document.location.protocol + '//connect.facebook.net/en_US/all.js'; document.getElementById( 'fb-root' ).appendChild( e );} )();Viet World Kitchen Home Asian DumplingsRecipe IndexClasses+EventsFav SitesAbout MePermission+Credit Welcome! Join me to explore, create, and contribute to the culinary traditions of Vietnam and the rest of Asia.

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March 02, 2012Cooking Light’s 7 Top Asian Cookbooks: Mine are included!Cooking Light Asian Cookbooks

It’s been kind of an amazing year full of fantastic developments in my food writing career. Along with the Asian Tofu book release, both of my earlier works were selected by Cooking Light for their Top 100 Cookbooks of the Last 25 Years awards. (The awards are in celebration of the magazine’s 25th anniversary.) Each month, the editors thematically reveal their picks.

The March issue has the fourth installment of the series, and the editors chose seven works for the Asian cookbook category. I was blown away to see the above photo with Asian Dumplings and Into the Vietnamese Kitchen in the stack along with Grace Young’s Breath of a Wok, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid’s Hot Sour Salty Sweet, Madhur Jaffrey’s At Home with Madhur Jaffrey, Hiroko Shimbo’s The Japanese Kitchen, and Eileen Yin Fei Lo’s Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking. Not only do I respect these authors (I have used their works for years) but I am also lucky to count most of them as friends. Wow.

Cooking-Light-top100-sml

Cooking Light did not invite entries to compete for these awards. The editors and test kitchen quietly and rigorously reviewed the merits of all books under consideration; the process is detailed on their site.

The magazine isn’t all about low-fat cooking, but rather about developing balanced lifestyles and consuming moderate amounts of good food. There’s wine, liquor, and desserts involved, as well as health and wellness. The editors and writers offer solid tips for home cooks. They don’t dumb down the cooking process as they encourage readers to make informed choices for their health.

My books were part of this two-page spread:

Asian Dumplings and Into the Vietnamese Kitchen

It’s really hard to read the actual copy but I wanted to show you the cool layout. Grace and Madhur’s books flank mine, which reflects how their works have influenced my writing.

Like Martha Stewart Living magazine, Cooking Light has a huge reach in the United States. One of my main goals as a food writer is to help people better understand Asian cooking and culture. These awards were totally unexpected and a definite career high point.  

On top of all that, last Sunday, I met and shook hands with Colman Andrews, one of the founders of Saveur magazine. He gave me my first major break in food writing in the mid 1990s.

Not bad for a refugee who arrived not speaking a word of English, huh? As always, thanks for your continued support!

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Comments Cooking Light’s 7 Top Asian Cookbooks: Mine are included! Cooking Light Asian Cookbooks

It’s been kind of an amazing year full of fantastic developments in my food writing career. Along with the Asian Tofu book release, both of my earlier works were selected by Cooking Light for their Top 100 Cookbooks of the Last 25 Years awards. (The awards are in celebration of the magazine’s 25th anniversary.) Each month, the editors thematically reveal their picks.

The March issue has the fourth installment of the series, and the editors chose seven works for the Asian cookbook category. I was blown away to see the above photo with Asian Dumplings and Into the Vietnamese Kitchen in the stack along with Grace Young’s Breath of a Wok, Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid’s Hot Sour Salty Sweet, Madhur Jaffrey’s At Home with Madhur Jaffrey, Hiroko Shimbo’s The Japanese Kitchen, and Eileen Yin Fei Lo’s Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking. Not only do I respect these authors (I have used their works for years) but I am also lucky to count most of them as friends. Wow.

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Draeger’s San Mateo, CA

Heritage Radio/Let's Eat In
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Mon, 3/19/12, 1-1:30pm EST

Asian Tofu Book Talk
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Sunday, December 25, 2011

Cookbooks to Buy this Holiday

Cookbooks are one of the best holiday gifts and this year, many renowned food writers and fellow food bloggers came out with their books, including yours truly. (My first cookbook “Easy Chinese Recipes” is available worldwide and on Amazon.com.)

Here are the list of cookbooks you should buy this holiday season, as a gift for friends and family or for yourself.

Peko Peko: A Charity Cookbook for Japan
Peko Peko: A Charity Cookbook for Japan

Peko Peko is a charity project curated by my good friend Rachel at La Fujimama, together with Marc at No Recipes and Stacie Billis. The cookbook offers a vast collection of homey Japanese dishes. The proceeds of this cookbook will go to GlobalGiving Japan Earthquake and Tsunami Relief Fund.

The Sweet Life in Paris
The Sweet Life in Paris

I am envious of David Lebovitz because he has the perfect sweet life! He is a mega cookbook author and an A-list food blogger, but more importantly, he is really a very sweet and nice guy. The Sweet Life in Paris chronicles his adventures in the city of lights as well as 50+ original recipes!

La Tartine Gourmande Cookbook
La Tartine Gourmande Cookbook

Believe it when I say this: I have been stalking La Tartine Gourmande for over 5 years. The blog is pure perfection with flawless and gorgeous food photography, great story telling and recipes. The good news is that all the gorgeousness and perfection are now in the form of a cookbook. I have seen the preview pictures and it makes me want to eat the book!

The Homesick Texan Cookbook
The Homesick Texan Cookbook

I remember not too long after I landed on my cookbook deal, I exchanged a few tweets with Lisa Fain at Homesick Texan, who was then working on her cookbook. Time flies and her cookbook is now available and a BEST-SELLING cookbook on Amazon. Check it out.

On a Stick
On a Stick

Earlier this year, I hosted a giveaway of Matt Bites cookbook On a Stick. I love the cookbook as it’s so much fun and beautiful. The 80 party-perfect recipes will come in handy this holiday season. And you’ll know that this cookbook rocks and completely worthy as Matt has already signed on to work on his second book!

Plate to Pixel
Plate to Pixel

This is a food photography guide book by food stylist and photography/food blogger Helene Dujardin of Tartlette. I have a copy of the book and has learned so much about professional food photography. If you love cookbook, I’m sure you will be equally interested in food photography as the book has hundreds of beautiful pictures.

Easy Chinese Recipes

Last but not least, let’s not forget about my cookbook “Easy Chinese Recipes.” With Lunar New Year coming up in January 2012, my cookbook will make a perfect gift for Christmas and also Lunar New Year. Sweet!

Bonus Mention:

This is an eBook written by my friend Monica Bhide. In Conversation with Exceptional Women features Powerful and insightful interviews with 50 influential women (writers, chefs, photographers, moms) on developing–and thriving–as a creative professional. I am one of the women featured (ahem!). The book is available on Amazon Kindle, check it out now.


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Monday, December 12, 2011

2011 Cookbooks Pushing the Asian Envelope: Indochine, Bill’s Everyday Asian, Tender, Plenty

2011 Cookbooks Pushing the Asian Envelope: Indochine, Bill’s Everyday Asian, Tender, Plenty - Viet World Kitchenwindow.fbAsyncInit = function() { FB.init( { apiKey: 'a279adbe87e2b3c505e777af99a5260d', xfbml: true } );};( function() { var e = document.createElement( 'script' ); e.async = true; e.src = document.location.protocol + '//connect.facebook.net/en_US/all.js'; document.getElementById( 'fb-root' ).appendChild( e );} )();Viet World KitchenHomeAsian Dumpling TipsRecipe IndexClasses + EventsFavorite SitesAbout MePermission + CreditWelcome to Viet World Kitchen where I explore the culinary traditions of Vietnam and the rest of Asia. Join me to learn, create, and contribute!

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Asian Tofu
Pre-order at Amazon, Barnes & Noble, iBooks

Asian Market Shopper
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Available at: Amazon, Barnes & Noble, iBooksRecent PostsGluten-Free Bun Trilogy: Dough, Baked Buns, Steamed BunsGluten-Free Baked Buns (Bao) RecipeGluten-Free Steamed Bun (Bao) Recipe2011 Cookbooks Pushing the Asian Envelope: Indochine, Bill’s Everyday Asian, Tender, PlentyMaggi Seasoning Sauce Substitutes: Mainstream, Gluten-Free, and MSG-Free OptionsInstant Pho Fixes? A tasting of Trader Joe’s, Pacific Foods and Happy PhoTamarind Glazed Lamb Ribs RecipeNovember 2011 Finds: Chinese Food Week, Online Asian Markets, Art & HumorApple Tart Tatin with Banh Mi (Bread) RecipeDeep-Fried Apple Spring Rolls RecipeAwards + Praise
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December 08, 20112011 Cookbooks Pushing the Asian Envelope: Indochine, Bill’s Everyday Asian, Tender, Plenty

great 2011 cookbooks

This year, I amassed a 3-foot-tall stack of food-related books. I bought most of them, publishers sent me a number of them, and friends gifted me books picked up in Asia. There are cookbooks, reference works, and memoirs. I’ve cooked from a handful of them and read others like novels to absorb the authors’ ideas, nuances, and messages. The gorgeous four books above caught me by surprise with their approach to presenting Asian foodways. They were written by Australians or Brits.

Indochine is written by Vietnamese-Australian Luke Nguyen, a Sydney-based chef/restaurateur and television show host. His first book, The Songs of Sapa (reissued in the States as My Vietnam), surveyed the country’s food as part of his food show on SBS in Australia and the Cooking Channel. This time, Luke traces the French elements in Vietnamese cooking. His travels lead him to interviewing people in Vietnam as well as to meet up with family members in France. I can hear Luke’s Aussie voice in the personal narrative of his journey. It reminds me of his very generous soul and how he toured me through his Little Saigon in Cambramatta, outside of Sydney.

The book design, such as the spread below, is stunning and provocative. Are those rooftops in Vietnam or France?

page from Luke Nguyen's Indochine
I am not one who wants to romanticize the French colonial period in Vietnam because a lot of terrible things happened and people suffered. Nor, do I ever want to give the impression that Vietnamese food is an offshoot of France. Call me a proud culinary nationalist.

Nevertheless, Indochine canvases traditional and modern Vietnamese food to paint a picture of timeless fusion cooking. Luke highlights the French-ness in each recipe but at the end of the day, they’re Vietnamese. Ingredients and cooking techniques travel the world as people immigrate and resettle. Indochine features Luke’s interactions with Vietnamese, French-Vietnamese, French, and Vietnamese-French people along with their recipes, which range from street food to fancy plated fare. From that mix of content, you get an interesting global perspective of Vietnamese cuisine.

(Note: If you yearn for a historic and rigorous look at the French colonial era in Vietnam, check Appetites and Aspirations in Vietnam by Erica Peters.)

Bill Granger’s Bill’s Everyday Asian feels as bright, fresh, and exciting as his restaurants in Sydney. Last week when Karen Shinto came to work and taste instant pho, I showed her the book and she lit up. "Australians know how to style books," she remarked.

What’s more, they have a knack for juxtaposing cultures in a natural manner that’s not kitschy or ethnic-specific. Images like this one from the book are just delicious and beautiful:

sample page from Bill's Everyday Asian
I took one look and thought of the practically sinful Chinese-Portuguese custard tarts I made a while back. Granger’s food looks tasty and the situation can be anywhere. There is a balanced amount of respect and mash-ups in his recipes. For example, he understand that “tofu needs very little to make it delicious” and serves it simply with some seasoned soy sauce. On the other hand, he explains that the meatballs with tamarind are his Asian take on an American classic.

Granger conveys a progressive sensibility about Asian foodways, which means that he does not see them as mysterious or precious. He wants to enjoy them.

Nigel Slater’s Tender is a wonderful homage to gardening and home cooking. It is an infectious work filled with beautiful photography and inviting prose. I was delighted and surprised to find a chapter on Chinese greens.

opening page of Slater's chapter on Chinese greens

Slater writes in his introduction:

There are moments when I long for a plate of steamed greens. … The greens I obsess over the most, the leaves I will take an hour’s bus journey simply to get my hands on, are usually the Chinese brassicas. The gai lan and bok choy, the choy sum, and mizuna leaves are ones I never seem to tire of… The real moment of glory for the Chinese brassicas is when they team up with high-octane dressings such as salty oyster sauce, searing chiles, and chopped and sizzling garlic.

I love his lively characterization of oyster sauce as ‘high-octane’ and chiles as ‘searing.’ One of the UK’s most respected food writers, Slater’s work is charmingly no-nonsense, enthusiastic, and encouraging. He discusses Asian vegetables as vegetables, without exoticizing or fetishizing them. They are part of his repertoire as much as beets and Jerusalem artichokes are. Slater cooks and writes like many of us do – in a cross-cultural manner. There’s a lot to savor and learn from Tender.

Yotam Ottolenghi is not a vegetarian but he runs a well-regarded vegetarian restaurant in London. His much-lauded and latest book, Plenty, embraces flavors and traditions from all over the globe. It's an uncommon collection of spirited vegetarian recipes.

For example, a recipe for savoy cabbage and parmesan rind soup sits next to a recipe for sautéed Brussels sprout and tofu. Black pepper tofu is triumphantly described as looking “as if it’s been prepared at a top Chinese restaurant” and employs a ton of butter, shallots, chiles, garlic, 3 kinds of soy sauces, and 5 tablespoons of crushed black peppercorns. Some may see Ottolenghi’s bold approach as jumbling up cuisines but he engages traditional Asian ingredients with as much gusto as he would give to any other ingredient. He treats them equally.

Asian elements in Ottolenghi's Plenty
That perspective is seen in the two-page photo spread above. There are home kitchen scenes on the left and a close-up of cellophane noodles on the right. That’s how Ottolenghi cooks and lives. That’s plenty fine by me.

Good books reinforce universal lessons as they illuminate something new. In breaking down barriers between cuisines and techniques, these four works underscore a trend toward better appreciation and understanding of Asian ingredients and foodways. That makes me extremely glad.

Obviously, there are books that I’ve overlooked. In fact, my 3-foot stack of books is just a few feet away from my desk where I’m typing. Share your thoughts on these or your favorite cookbooks from 2011.

2011 recipes informed and inspired by cookbooks:

Crunchy Shrimp Balls/Chef's Special Balls (Easy Chinese Recipes by Bee Yinn Low)Kaffir Lime Fried Chicken (Twenty by Michael Ruhlman)Tamarind Glazed Lamb Ribs (Odd Bits by Jennifer McLagan)Red Wine and Beef Stew in Claypot (A Franco-Viet Experiment) (Odd Bits by Jennifer McLagan)Honey and Rose Water Tapioca Pudding (Super Natural Cooking Everyday by Heidi Swanson)North Indian Egg Curry (Savouring India by Julie Sahni)Posted in Books |

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Diane

I LOVE Nigel Slater and have all his books. I've had a big old cook's crush on him since I first picked up his book "Real Fast Food" in London almost 15 years ago. I just bought TEnder, and while I don't think I'll cook from it as much as his others, it's lovely.

The others - well, what can I say, Andrea. You are some kind of evil pusher! I simply cannot contain myself when buying cookbooks. I have no will power at all when it comes to them. And here are some more than look positively mouthwateringly good. Oh, my transitory bank account....Sigh!

Seriously, they look both serious and entertaining, and I will be picking up at least some of these. Thanks.

Posted by:Diane |December 08, 2011 at 09:29 AM

Diana

Great round-up! I'm happy to see innovative Asian cooking get its due share of praise. I've also flipped through the Mission Chinese Food cookbook at the bookstore and at first glance it seems to be pushing the envelope too (will have to buy it and cook from it to comment more). Hope more such cookbooks will get published in the coming years!

Posted by:Diana |December 08, 2011 at 09:55 AM

Andrea Nguyen

Diane: Cookbooks are a minor addiction, no? The Aussie books are hard to find at stores. I got mine at Omnivore Books in SF. The Amazon link has some sources too. Tender is a very entertaining and inspiring read.

Posted by:Andrea Nguyen |December 08, 2011 at 11:22 AM

Andrea Nguyen

Diana: Glad you enjoyed the list. I'd love to get your impressions of the Mission Street Food book. They rep the uber hip take on Chinese food.

Looking forward to your Chinese take-out cookbook next year. I've been wanting someone to write that book! You are definitely I.T.

Posted by:Andrea Nguyen |December 08, 2011 at 11:29 AM

Erica Peters

Thanks for the shout-out, Andrea! What I love about Luke's book (besides the gorgeous photography) is that he shows the interplay between French and Vietnamese techniques and ingredients -- but also the interplay between family stories and culinary history. It's hard to trace the real inspiration behind these culinary mash-ups, a hundred years later -- but fun to try!

Posted by:Erica Peters |December 08, 2011 at 12:38 PM

Jonathan

I have been experiencing a book binge as of late. Specifically, books celebrating food, whether through recipes, history, or culture. And with books like the ones you've featured here, anyone could understand my difficulty with restraint. Thank you for sharing!

Posted by:Jonathan |December 08, 2011 at 10:08 PM

Tuyet N.

Thank you for sharing, Andrea! I am addicted to cookbooks and it looks like I will have to add these books to my Xmas wish list!

Posted by:Tuyet N. |December 08, 2011 at 11:11 PM

Justin Bieber Shoes

“It’s one of those things that wouldn’t have happened had there not been this period of time,’’ said Carlisle, referring to the 149-day lockout. “It was good because I’m a big fan of music and I’m a big believer in the arts.“It also, by agreeing to do a series of these things, we’re going to do one or two more. It puts a good kind of pressure on you to practice and be good enough to not make a fool of yourself.’’


Posted by:Justin Bieber Shoes |December 09, 2011 at 01:40 AM

blacklight

Yes, there is a tragic history between France and Vietnam. But as a Vietnamese American born in France, I say with absolute certainty that something good came out of it: a level of mutual respect and regard between formerly colonized and former colonizer that have few if any equivalents anywhere on this planet. Just as there tens of thousands of French expats in Vietnam, France is a stronghold of the Vietnamese communities overseas. We have contributed tons of Vietnamese doctors, engineers, scientists and engineers to France. And needless to say, there is hardly a Vietnamese family in France who doesn't have cherished French daughters-in-law or sons-in-law. The past was bitter, bloody and dark. But that past is gone and when I myself will be gone, any bitterness, blood and darkness that still remains will most probably be gone with me - This is my hope and my prayer. We honor those who picked up the weapons and fought for us. But they did not fight for hatred. They fought for a future for their people. They fought for life. Not for death. We honor their memory and sacrifice by remembering and acknowledging the past AND by living in the present and by firmly looking toward the future. Just as they would have wanted us to do :) If there is any war between French and Vietnamese these days, it is the wars between husbands and wives, the wars between boyfriends and girlfriends and the wars between close friends. Let it be this way until the end of time :) When you compare the best of the French and the best of Vietnamese - kindness, compassion, generosity of spirit, integrity, respect for learning, love of family - you will most probably agree that we were never meant to be enemies :)


And yes, I like French cooking, too. But it's the cooking of the ordinary people not the cooking for kings :) I believe that every great cooking traditionis more or less an open system. There are French influences on Vietnamese cooking, but the reverse is also true. Because good ideas and good conceppts are meant to be used and shared :) A great cooking tradition that has no capacity for change has no capacity for renewal. And if so, it will shrivel up and die. As we speak, the French and Vietnamese cooking traditions are the picture of health :)

So long :)

Posted by:blacklight |December 09, 2011 at 10:58 AM

Bill Bird

Shoot! I was hoping the book called Indochine might be somehow, some way, related to the old Indochine Restaurant we had here on J Street in Sacramento. A true HOLE IN THE WALL Andrea, the green pepper beef dish there was to DIE FOR good. One day they closed up and went away. Bang. Just like that. Gone. POOF! There one day, gone the next. They had a HUGE following, and nobody ever knew where they went or what happened to them. I'd love to have a dish of that Green Pepper Beef though. Oh well -- time to go strain my chicken pho broth. Guess whose recipe I used? Look in the mirror!

Posted by:Bill Bird |December 10, 2011 at 06:21 PM

Xuanie

Hello Ms. Andrea,

Not quite a cookbook but I think you will find this fascinating.

https://rowman.com/ISBN/0759120757

Posted by:Xuanie |December 11, 2011 at 06:34 PM

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