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Showing posts with label Pickled. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pickled. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Panfried Tofu with Pickled Ginger Recipe

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October 17, 2013Panfried Tofu with Pickled Ginger RecipePanfried-tofu-with-pickled-ginger

I’ve been grappling with this recipe for some time. It’stotally easy but the first time I made it a couple years ago, thinking that itwould be great for  Asian Tofu, it was bleh. Mediocre tasting and not very special. Idropped it. Never would I put a recipe into a book that I didn’t like.

But I kept thinking about it, primarily because ginger pairswell with tofu in classics like Japanese chilled tofu with grated ginger andsoy sauce, or Chinese tofu pudding with ginger syrup. Then I came across anearly unused copy of FragrantHarbour Taste: The New Chinese Cooking of Hong Kong. Published in 1991,it was written by Ken Hom who was born in Chicago and is expert in Chinese foodand culture. He recorded some excellent recipes that evoke HongKong’s culinary scene at that time. Leafing through the cookbook, I came acrossa recipe for “stir-fried pickled ginger with bean curd.” Ah-ha, paydirt.

Hom’s recipe was a little funny because among usual imperialmeasurements, ingredients were also measure in “dessertspoons.” I had to lookthat up and the old-fashioned term refers to approximately 2 teaspoons. Thebook was published in the UK so maybe that was the style of recipe writingused. It was initially confusing but turned out to be a bit of trivia to keepin my back pocket. In Hom’s later works that I own, I’d not seen dessertspoons.

Homemade-pickled-ginger
Panfried-tofu-with-pickled-ginger-pan

With a partially used block of leftover tofu in the fridge, Ihalved the recipe and used the homemade pickled ginger I’d prepared a while ago. Hom calls for a Chinese version of pickled ginger that includes garlic but the Japanese kind I'd made worked fine.

The little dish turned out remarkable – the tofu retained a crisp chewy textureand the ginger went from delicate to earthy, with a salty-sweetness from theseasonings. You’d think that the combination would dance with delicate flavorsbut it instead had satisfying gravitas. In other words, it had oomph.

I didn’t expect to eat it all but Idid. The tofu was part of a semi-healthy lunch along with a rawkale salad and a bowl of rice that I’d cooked with chicken fat.

Tofu-with-pickled-ginger
Definitely add this to your tofu routine, making it foryourself or doubling it for 2 or 3 people.

Recipe

Panfried Tofu withPickled Ginger

Yield: 1 serving

Ingredients

8 ounces firm or extra-firm tofu1 tablespoon packed pickled ginger, homemadeor purchased1/8 teaspoon salt3/4 teaspoon sugar2 teaspoons Shaoxingrice wine 1 teaspoon regular soy sauce1 teaspoon dark soy sauce, or 3/4 teaspoonregular soy sauce plus 1/4 teaspoon dark molasses1 tablespoon chopped green onion, white andgreen part 1 tablespoon Canola or peanut oil1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

Instructions

Cut the tofu in domino-like pieces. Transfer toa dry non-terry dishtowel or several layers of paper towel. Let drain for 10 to15 minutes.Meanwhile, cut the ginger into narrow ribbons(think dried linguine or banh pho/pad Thai rice noodles). In a small bowl, stirtogether the salt, sugar, rice wine, and both kinds of soy sauces. Taste andmake sure you like it, or tweak for a salty-sweet finish. Add the green onion.Set the ginger and liquid seasoning near the stove.Blot the tofu dry with paper towel. Heat amedium nonstick skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil. Panfrythe tofu until golden and crisp on both sides, about 4 minutes total. Transferto a plate, leaving any oil behind. Lower the heat slightly, add the pickled ginger.Cook, stirring for about 30 seconds, until aromatic and heated through. Add theliquid seasonings and tofu. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring,  until the tofu has absorbed most of theseasonings. Off heat, stir in the sesame oil to aromatize. Serve immediately. 

Related posts:

Salt and Pepper TofuTofu Frying TipsVWK tofu recipes are listed herePosted in Asian Tofu, Recipes: All, Recipes: Chinese, Recipes: Fast and Easy, Recipes: Gluten-Free Adaptable, Recipes: Main Course, Recipes: Stir-Fry, Recipes: Tofu, Recipes: Vegan, Recipes: Vegetarian |

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Comments Panfried Tofu with Pickled Ginger Recipe Panfried-tofu-with-pickled-ginger

I’ve been grappling with this recipe for some time. It’stotally easy but the first time I made it a couple years ago, thinking that itwould be great for  Asian Tofu, it was bleh. Mediocre tasting and not very special. Idropped it. Never would I put a recipe into a book that I didn’t like.

But I kept thinking about it, primarily because ginger pairswell with tofu in classics like Japanese chilled tofu with grated ginger andsoy sauce, or Chinese tofu pudding with ginger syrup. Then I came across anearly unused copy of FragrantHarbour Taste: The New Chinese Cooking of Hong Kong. Published in 1991,it was written by Ken Hom who was born in Chicago and is expert in Chinese foodand culture. He recorded some excellent recipes that evoke HongKong’s culinary scene at that time. Leafing through the cookbook, I came acrossa recipe for “stir-fried pickled ginger with bean curd.” Ah-ha, paydirt.

Stay Connected                         Asian Tofu in the News"Informative, engaging, well written and researched, this is also the best book about tofu."
— Winnie Yang, The Art of Eating

"A whole cookbook devoted to tofu? Yes, please."
— Kate Williams,
Serious Eats 2012 Favorite Cookbooks

"Cooking with Tofu (Are You Serious?!)"
— Michael Rulhman on his tofu conversion

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Saturday, September 14, 2013

Japanese Pickled Ginger (Gari) Recipe

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September 12, 2013Japanese Pickled Ginger (Gari) Recipe
Pickled-ginger-recipe

We are in the season of young ginger. Tender, mildly spicyand gorgeous to look at, the creamy hands are making their way to Asianmarkets. I saw super beautiful ones in Oakland Chinatown last week butrefrained from buying because I was bound for the banh mi photo shoot. I saidto myself, “The next time you see young ginger, buy it to pickle.” Yesterday Isurprisingly found the ginger at my local hippie-dippy market. It wasorganically grown, from Hawaii. The cashier had no idea what it was.

In Asian vernacular, there’s young and old ginger. The youngstuff has paper bits of translucent skin whereas the mature ginger is coveredby tan, dry skin. Most of the year, we’re all cooking with old ginger, whosebite punches up many foods and warms our bodies. Young ginger can be eaten raw– I’ve had Thai fermented sausage with raw ginger, which complements thesausage flavor and functions as an antibacterial.

But there’s only so much young ginger I can eat. My mainmethod of using it is by pickling it Japanese style for what most of us recognize as sushi ginger (gari in Japanese). I enjoy it with sushi (obvious) but also mixed into sushi rice and stuffed into fried tofu pockets. It's a terrific side to grilled oily fish such as salmon or mackerel. 

Asian Pickles Japan by Karen SolomonThere are fabulous recipesin cookbooks by Elizabeth Andoh and Hiroko Shimbo but this time around I used KarenSolomon’s recipe from Asian Pickles:Japan. It’s currently sold as a $2.99 ebook and is part of her upcomingbook called – you guessed it, AsianPickles – which will be released in its entirety in Spring 2014. Publishinga book in parts is an interesting way to offer readers the option to buy thechapter that they’re interested in.

I got the enhanced iBooks version that camewith audio pronunciations of the recipe titles and ingredients, which ishelpful if you’re not versed in Japanese food terms. Otherwise, the regularebook of Asian Pickles: Japan sold onlinewill be fine.

Young ginger
Pickled ginger process
Karen lived in the Japan in the 1990s and writes with an infectiousverve. I bought two hands of ginger, about 1.5 times the amount she called forso I simply did the math for the recipe below. Some things to note:

If you can’t find young ginger, use regular oldginger but peel it. During the blanching, let the ginger sit in the hot waterfor 45 to 60 seconds instead of the 20 seconds called for below.Homemade pickled ginger may turn a blushing pinkbut not the torrid pink of storebought pickled ginger, which may have a littlehelp from dye.Use a mandoline or super sharp knife to cut theginger. You need very thin pieces. I put my mandoline in a square baking pan(see photo above) to keep it in place and safely use it.Don’t throw away the pickling brine. It’sdelicious. The dried kelp is my addition, a little umamitrick I learned from Japanese food authority Elizabeth Andoh.

Karen’s recipes are fun, written without the burden ofbowing to tradition. As a non-native, she gives readers an undaunted take atAsian foodways, opening the door as if to say, “What have you been waiting for?Don’t be silly. Just dive in. I have.” You can’t lose with a $2.99 investment.Along with the Japan e-booklet, there’s also an Indian, Korean, and Chineseone.

Recipe

Japanese PickledGinger

Gari

Yield: About 1 1/2 cups

Ingredients

9 to 10 ounces (270–300 g) young ginger6 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt9 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar2 squares of dried kombu (kelp), each about thesize of your thumbnail (optional)

Instructions

Use an inverted spoon to scrape off the thin,paper bits from the ginger. Use a mandoline or very sharp knife to cut theginger across the grain into super thin pieces. They should be nearlysee-through.Toss the ginger with the 1 1/2 tablespoons ofsugar and salt. Set aside for 30 minutes to reduce its harshness.Meanwhile, partially fill a small saucepan withwater. Ready a fine-mesh strainer and 2-cup (.5 liter) glass jar. In anothersaucepan, combine the remaining 6 tablespoons sugar, vinega,r and kombu (ifusing). Set this stuff aside near the stove.About 10 minutes before the ginger finishesmellowing out, start the water pot going on the stove. When the ginger is done,add it all to the boiling water, stir and blanch for 20 seconds to further reducethe harshness. Drain in the mesh strainer but don’t rinse. Shake a few times toexpel water, then put into the glass container. Bring the mixture of sugar and vinegar to aboil, give things a stir to ensure the sugar has dissolved. Then pour into thejar of ginger. Push down with chopsticks or a spoon to submerge. Cool, uncovered,then cap and refrigerate. Depending on the ginger, it may be ready to eat in 1to 3 days. Taste and see. Store refrigerated for months.

Adapted from Karen Solomon’s AsianPickles: Japan (ebook edition, Ten Speed Press, 2012)

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Comments Japanese Pickled Ginger (Gari) Recipe
Pickled-ginger-recipe

We are in the season of young ginger. Tender, mildly spicyand gorgeous to look at, the creamy hands are making their way to Asianmarkets. I saw super beautiful ones in Oakland Chinatown last week butrefrained from buying because I was bound for the banh mi photo shoot. I saidto myself, “The next time you see young ginger, buy it to pickle.” Yesterday Isurprisingly found the ginger at my local hippie-dippy market. It wasorganically grown, from Hawaii. The cashier had no idea what it was.

In Asian vernacular, there’s young and old ginger. The youngstuff has paper bits of translucent skin whereas the mature ginger is coveredby tan, dry skin. Most of the year, we’re all cooking with old ginger, whosebite punches up many foods and warms our bodies. Young ginger can be eaten raw– I’ve had Thai fermented sausage with raw ginger, which complements thesausage flavor and functions as an antibacterial.

But there’s only so much young ginger I can eat. My mainmethod of using it is by pickling it Japanese style for what most of us recognize as sushi ginger (gari in Japanese). I enjoy it with sushi (obvious) but also mixed into sushi rice and stuffed into fried tofu pockets. It's a terrific side to grilled oily fish such as salmon or mackerel. 

Stay Connected                         Asian Tofu in the News"Informative, engaging, well written and researched, this is also the best book about tofu."
— Winnie Yang, The Art of Eating

"A whole cookbook devoted to tofu? Yes, please."
— Kate Williams,
Serious Eats 2012 Favorite Cookbooks

"Cooking with Tofu (Are You Serious?!)"
— Michael Rulhman on his tofu conversion

Book info, reviews, radio & TV . . .Classes & EventsHands-on @loveapplefarms, Santa Cruz
Sun, Oct 6, 12-4pm: Asian Dumplings
Sat, Oct 26, 12-4pm: Into the Vietnamese Kitchen
Sat, Nov 2, 12-4:30pm: Pho Workshop

Hands-on @SFCooking, San Francisco
Fri, Oct 18, 5:30-10:30pm: Asian Dumplings [date night!]
Sat, Oct 19, 10am-3pm: Asian Dumplings {waitlist only}

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Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Umeboshi (pickled 'plum') article in The Japan Times

This month’s Japan Times article is about umeboshi, the sour-salty pickled fruit (usually called a pickled plum, though it’s actually more related to an apricot) that’s practically a national symbol.

I’ve written quite a lot about umeboshi on these pages before of course, including how to make your own if you can get a hold of the fresh ume fruit, following my mother’s instructions. This time though I’ve gone a bit more into my memories of this sour-salty treat growing up, as well as its symbolism. The picture you see at the top of the article is of a hinomaru bento - a bed of white rice with a single umeboshi. It looks rather like the Japanese flag, which is called the hinomaru, thus the name. The hinomaru bento has been alternately a symbol of poverty, and a symbol of wealth. During times of peace and plenty, it was a symbol of poverty; if you could only afford to eat rice and not much else, you could somehow get the rice down with the help of an umeboshi. Even looking at an umeboshi could help, since it got the salivatory glands going. But in times of war, rice itself became a precious commodity. All domestic rice production was reserved for feeding the army during WWII, and while the rich and influential could get their hands on some, regular people had to make do with other grains like millet. After the war, rice was imported from Southeast Asia to make up for deficiencies, but people hated the gaimai (rice from ‘outside’) that was so different from the type of rice they were used to. (See Looking At Rice.) So a hinomaru bento with ‘real’ japonica rice was a coveted luxury.

Nowadays of course we live in times of plenty, and that extends to the umeboshi. Not that many people make their own umeboshi anymore in Japan - and why should they? The variety of umeboshi you can get just about anywhere is staggering. This is the umeboshi display at a typical Tokyo department store food hall.

Umeboshi display

And here are various kinds of umeboshi on sale. Some are low-salt, some don’t use any red shiso (perilla), some are marinated in dashi stock, and so on.

Different kinds of umeboshi

Prices vary wildly too. You can get a packet of serviceable umeboshi for 100 yen, at the 100 yen shops like Daiso or Lawson 100, or ultra-gourmet varieties that cost 500 to 700 yen and more per umeboshi.

I know, I have not been updating here much again. I don’t know what to say, except that I’ve not been feeling too well. My energy is way low, my back keeps hurting, and now my eyes are bothering me a lot. The last one really cuts down on my online time. All this is attributed to the cancer treatments and so on, and is supposed to get better with time. I certainly hope so. T_T


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Sunday, June 10, 2012

Pickled Snow Peas Recipe

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June 07, 2012Pickled Snow Peas Recipe

Pickled snow peas recipe

I like snow peas but don’t love them enough to eat an entire dish of them. They’re great for accenting stir-fries and soups, in which a little goes a long way. However, when you buy them at Chinese markets – where they tend to be very fresh and well priced -- you usually have to purchase them in one-pound bags. Unless you plan to serve snow peas every day of the week, it’s hard to get through the entire bag.

I am guilty of leaving my Chinese market snow peas to linger for too long in the fridge. Inevitably, the over-the-hill pods are dumped into our greencycle bin on trash night. Enter pickled snow peas – the first recipe I happened to have turned to in The Preservation Kitchen by Paul Virant and Kate Leahy. The title of the book, which I’d received as a review copy, was perfect for my circumstance: I needed to preserve the snow peas for a later date!

Pickling snow peas aren’t a go-to Asian use of the vegetable but I was game. I had a bought an ample bag of snow peas from Ranch 99 and had a scant pound sitting around.

I had to do some math with the original recipe, which called for 2 1/2 pounds of snow peas. Additionally, I discovered that I was out of caraway seeds for the pickling spices. I used cumin instead and decided to tilt the spices toward India a little further by using football-shaped coriander seeds, a sweet and citrusy version of their round brethren. A little turmeric helped to keep the snow peas from turning too sickly green, which is what they naturally want to do.

Pickled snow peas raw

Pickled snow peas spices

Without champagne vinegar on hand, I chose unseasoned rice vinegar, which has a similar mild acidity. However, I ended up adding more sugar than my original estimate because the flavor was a bit too tart for my tastebuds.

The thing with The Preservation Kitchen’s recipes is that they’re clearly presented in weight, volume and percentage measurements. If you tweak things like I did, it was simply a matter of using a calculator to figure out the right amount of ingredients to use. You can guesstimate your adaptation with a fair amount of assurance! A book that inspires confident cooking is a huge boon to the cook.

After sitting overnight in the fridge (I prefer the Asian no-canning approach to pickling vegetables), the crisp tangy snow peas were ready to eat or keep for a while. What I found surprising was that the snow peas kept their snow pea-ness. They seem like a delicate vegetable but they retained their identity in the sea of brine and spice.

How to serve the pickled snow peas? The authors described their pickled snow peas as a perfect side for smoked or grilled meat. They also mentioned that pickled snow peas are great added to chicken salad or showered atop a green salad. I could see them with grilled lemongrass pork or tandoori chicken (see the Asian Market Shopper for my recipe). They’d also be a partner for charcuterie or fried snacks – foods where you need some tang to cut the richness. I could see adding them to finish fried rice too.

This is an easy pickle recipe that I hope you’ll try out. Next time I buy snow peas at the Chinese market, I'll know that I can use up the entire bag.

RECIPE

Pickled Snow Peas

Use more sugar if you prefer a moderately-sour pickle.

Yield: 1 quart

Ingredients

1 pound snow peas3/4 teaspoon coriander seed3/4 teaspoon brown mustard seed3/4 teaspoon cumin or caraway seed1/2 teaspoon fennel seed1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns1 dried chile de arbol or other dried red pepper, torn into several pieces1 3/4 cups unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar1 cup water1 to 2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons kosher saltScant 1/4 teaspoon turmeric

Instructions

Wash and drain the snow peas. Snap off the ends of each snow pea, peeling and discarding the stringy fiber as you work. Set aside.In a small saucepan, toast the coriander, mustard, cumin, fennel, peppercorns, and chile over medium-low heat, until very fragrant; a tiny bit of smoking is okay. Put into a 4 to 6-cup jar. Add the snow peas.Return the saucepan to the stove. Add the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, and turmeric. Bring to a rolling boil. Turn off the heat, wait for the bubbling to subside, then pour over the snow peas. Use a spoon, spatula, or ladle to gently push the snow peas down so that they’ll be submerged in the brine. They should be eventually covered.Let cool completely, partially covered, at room temperature. Cap and refrigerate overnight before eating.

Adapted from: The Preservation Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2012) by Paul Virant and Kate Leahy.

Related posts

Daikon and carrot picklesBread and butter pickles

 

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Comments Pickled Snow Peas Recipe

Pickled snow peas recipe

I like snow peas but don’t love them enough to eat an entire dish of them. They’re great for accenting stir-fries and soups, in which a little goes a long way. However, when you buy them at Chinese markets – where they tend to be very fresh and well priced -- you usually have to purchase them in one-pound bags. Unless you plan to serve snow peas every day of the week, it’s hard to get through the entire bag.

I am guilty of leaving my Chinese market snow peas to linger for too long in the fridge. Inevitably, the over-the-hill pods are dumped into our greencycle bin on trash night. Enter pickled snow peas – the first recipe I happened to have turned to in The Preservation Kitchen by Paul Virant and Kate Leahy. The title of the book, which I’d received as a review copy, was perfect for my circumstance: I needed to preserve the snow peas for a later date!

Pickling snow peas aren’t a go-to Asian use of the vegetable but I was game. I had a bought an ample bag of snow peas from Ranch 99 and had a scant pound sitting around.

I had to do some math with the original recipe, which called for 2 1/2 pounds of snow peas. Additionally, I discovered that I was out of caraway seeds for the pickling spices. I used cumin instead and decided to tilt the spices toward India a little further by using football-shaped coriander seeds, a sweet and citrusy version of their round brethren. A little turmeric helped to keep the snow peas from turning too sickly green, which is what they naturally want to do.

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