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Sunday, February 24, 2013

Step-by-Step Crab Picking plus Viet Crab Recipes

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February 15, 2013Step-by-Step Crab Picking plus Viet Crab Recipes

Cooked crabs
Along with folding dumplings, my mother used to assign me toclean a dozen stope crabs at a time for Vietnamese deviled crab (cua farci). Igot a lot of practice, starting around the time I was 12. Whether you cooked acrab yourself or bought it pre-cooked, you still have to get the meat out yourself.

Some tips to pre-cooked crab buyers, don’t let the fishmonger crack the crab for you. Chances are, the person will bang on the crabwith a mallet, and dump out all the tomalley and fat. Also, don’t forget to askwhen the crab was cooked. If you get home with the crab and it smells off –ammonia like, or if the flesh is mushy, take it back to the store for anexchange or refund. One time I got a crab that was totally black inside. Eewwww.

Whether you pick Dungeness, blue, stone crab or anothervariety, it’s a fun thing to do. Kind of meditative. Keep a glass of winenearby and turn on the tunes. Invite someone to join you. I’ve trained myhusband and we do it together.

Here’s how I typically clean and pick a crab:

If the crab was just cooked (see this post for info on buying and cooking live crab), transfer it to a plate orbaking sheet for about 20 minutes, or until it is cool enough to handle. Peoplewith skin reactions to crab shell may want to put on a pair of thin gloves.

Work near the sink and have a plastic bag nearby to holdunwanted shell bits. Put the crab, top side down, on the work surface. Pull offthe claws and legs and pile them nearby. Lift up and break off the triangularflap (the apron). Holding the crab down with one hand, pry off the body sectionwith the other hand, lifting from the back hinge. Set the body section aside.

How to clean crab 1Be firm and pull.

Discard the shell if you don’t want the tomalley (liver) andfat, which some call the viscera. Otherwise, pour out the liquid insidethe shell, stopping short of the more solid, thickish contents, which is thegreenish gold tomalley and white fat. It may look like the contents of a poopydiaper, but it’s crab gold to those who love it. If you’re fond of the stufflike I am, use a teaspoon to scrape the tomalley and fat into a small bowl anddiscard the empty shell.

Crab tomalley and fatCrab tomalley and fat

Discard the fang-shaped spongy gills on the body section.Snap off and discard the thin jaws. If present, discard the reddish membranethat covers the center and the squiggly white pieces underneath. Scrape out anyadditional tomalley from the body section with the spoon.

Crab eating pickCrab comes with its own picker!
Use your hands to snap the body in half. Use your fingersto remove the meat from all the little channels, depositing it in another bowl.Then crack and remove the meat from the claws and legs, adding it to the bowl. Ametal nutcracker is handy for cracking, and the pointy tip of a crab leg is perfectfor digging out the meat.

Crab meatYour reward. Eat a chunk. You deserve it.
How much stuff willyou get? A 2-pound Dungeness crab yields about 8 ounces (225 grams) of meatand 1/4 cup of tomalley and fat. To save time, cook, clean, and pick crab a dayor two in advance, then cover the bowls of meat and tomalley and fat andrefrigerate. My personal rule is that I get a chunk of fresh crab to eat when I’mdone.

What to do with yourcrabby treasure?

Crab recipeSriracha crab deviled crab wontons and Viet cellophane noodles with crab (mien xao cua)

 

My favorite way to show off crab is in a Viet mien xao cua, a stir-fry of cellophane noodles and crab. The tomalley and fat, along with an egg, imbues the noodles with golden color and briny flavor. It’s a fabulous and effective way to make the most of your efforts. The recipe is in Into the Vietnamese Kitchen, page 236. If you get Edible SF, the recipe was featured in the Winter 2013 issue; look for Celia Sack’s essay. You can also make a Franco-Vietnamese deviled crab (cua farci). There’s the ramekin version on page 44 of the Viet cookbook. Or, try this one made with a Sriracha and crab mixture baked in wonton skin cups.A classic northern Viet crab noodle soup preparation is bun rieu cua, which I make with crab and shrimp. See page 215 of the Viet cookbook for a recipe. There’s a vegetarian version posted here that includes a nifty trick of coagulating soy milk. If you like to pick crab at the table, consider a Viet nosh treat called cua hap bia (crab steamed in beer). Or, keep things ultra simple and eat the crab with a dip in a salt, white pepper and lime dipping sauce. Homemade mayonnaise ain't bad either!

Crab finds its way into many Viet dishes. Check the index ofInto the Vietnamese Kitchen for moreideas, as well as search this site for “crab.” 

What's your favorite way to eat crab? 

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Comments Step-by-Step Crab Picking plus Viet Crab Recipes

Cooked crabs
Along with folding dumplings, my mother used to assign me toclean a dozen stope crabs at a time for Vietnamese deviled crab (cua farci). Igot a lot of practice, starting around the time I was 12. Whether you cooked acrab yourself or bought it pre-cooked, you still have to get the meat out yourself.

Some tips to pre-cooked crab buyers, don’t let the fishmonger crack the crab for you. Chances are, the person will bang on the crabwith a mallet, and dump out all the tomalley and fat. Also, don’t forget to askwhen the crab was cooked. If you get home with the crab and it smells off –ammonia like, or if the flesh is mushy, take it back to the store for anexchange or refund. One time I got a crab that was totally black inside. Eewwww.

Whether you pick Dungeness, blue, stone crab or anothervariety, it’s a fun thing to do. Kind of meditative. Keep a glass of winenearby and turn on the tunes. Invite someone to join you. I’ve trained myhusband and we do it together.

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