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March 31, 2011Mail Call: Flight Deals to Vietnam and Travel SafetyMax emailed last week asking about traveling to Vietnam. He described himself as an avid home cook who is particularly interested in Asian food. He also risked being un-p.c. by mentioning: “my girlfriend and I are about as white as it gets.”
Folks – some of you have traveled to Vietnam – perhaps more than I have! Max is a newbie to the Motherland so let’s all chip in our Vietnam travel tips.
Cost of Traveling to Vietnam
Max is flying out of Vermont and he wants to go in the summer. That’s typically an off-season for travel to Vietnam because the weather really heats up. I was in Hanoi last June and it was frighteningly hot. But he reported that the prices were really high. I checked current round-trip tickets in June from JFK to SGN and fare were – gulp – close to $1,900! Fuel costs and airport fees have indeed gone up.
There are NO direct, non-stop flights from the United States to Vietnam. You’re always flying though another country. It’s cheapest to fly from the West Coast as the distance is shorter. However, from Vermont, I’d travel to JFK and fly from there to hubs such as Bangkok, Hong Kong, or Taipei. Check the list of airlines that fly to Vietnam and see if they have deal alerts. (Btw, Vietnam Airlines is quite good.)
Given that you have to do multiple hops and spend what seems like days at the airport to get to Vietnam, try to extend the trip and visit a few other countries. When I’ve gone to Asia for research, I try to go through the All Asia Pass by Cathay Pacific because I’m usually on a writer’s budget.
Know that the Cathay pass is not built for convenient. You have to fly when seats are available so there is less flexibility. You also have to transit through Hong Kong many times but it's a great airport. If you don’t mind those restrictions, the pass is a major deal.
Sometimes I have to catch a very very early morning flight and end up spending a day transitioning, but I save thousands of dollars. Cathay usually announces the pass around this time each year so keep an eye out for the All Asia Pass. There may be a supplement for flying from the East Coast.
The other thing I suggest is trying a Vietnamese travel agent. They may know of a deal since they’re booking lotsa travelers there. I personally have never used a travel agent to fly to Vietnam. Once you’re in Vietnam, there are Vietnam Airlines offices in many places for booking internal flights.Hotels in Vietnam can be more expensive than you expect for a developing country. During winter and early spring, demand for rooms is high so prices go up. However, a $150 room in Vietnam would cost twice that in the U.S. There are budget options too but you can splurge, if you like. Food is generally very inexpensive but imported liquor (read: wine, cocktails) is not. Drink lots of local bia hoi (fresh beer) on ice and once in a while, go to a nice bar for a glass of wine. Stay hydrated.
Safety in Vietnam
You have to be smart wherever you travel. I feel just as safe in Vietnam as I do anywhere else. But here are a few things that I do when traveling in a foreign country:Carry a photocopy of my passport in case the real passport goes missing.Use an inconspicuous purse and wear it across my chest. A motorcyclist once tried to pull my husband’s man bag off his shoulder but Rory hung on to it. I would have probably let it go because the person zoomed by very quickly. Keep fancy jewelry at home. Have a sense of where a taxi should take you – the district, intersection, etc. Bring the phone number of your destination in case you need help or the cabbie gets lost. On occasion, a cabbie may fake that he doesn’t know where a particular restaurant is and dump you off at a “friend’s” place. Get out of the cab, yell at the cabbie, then flag down another cab. In a crowd, wear your backpack on the front. That’s advice a wet market vendor gave me.Wear clothes with at least 1 zippered or buttoned pocket to keep a credit card or cash. Divide your money between different pockets and your purse/wallet. If you are pick-pocketed, you won’t lose everything.Most people are friendly and willing to help lost/confused tourists.
If you get hustled, take it easy. If it’s a matter of giving someone a few dollars, do it. The small amount of money means more to them than to your ego.
When traveling in Vietnam, I’m more concerned about food safety than personal safety. On that note, Max, check out these postS:
Vietnam Travel Visa tips
If you have tips for Max, please add them below. Or, pose a question!
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We went to Vietnam over 3 years ago to adopt our little girl. We loved every minute of it. We flew Thai Air and they were great. We flew coach but it was quite luxurious. Lots of leg room and the small tvs were on the backs of the chairs. It never felt like a 16 hour flight. We would fly them again. I did also hear that Vietnam Airlines is great too. We stayed at Somerset Grand in the Hanoi Towers in Hanoi. Great hotel. It was about $135 a night but it had 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, full kitchen and laundry. Worth every penny. A few restaurants that we loved - The Cyclo - Vietnamese/French - delicious - we ate there numerous times. Quan an Ngon - outdoor typical Vietnamese restaurant - again delicious. Food is so inexpensive. We were there in October and it was HOT. I cannot imagine how hot it would be there in the summer. We went on a trip to Ha Long Bay and I highly recommend it. It is stunning. We stayed on a junk boat and it is an experience you will never forget. It is so cheap. By the way, we are as white as it gets too. Oh, and I am very jealous as I cannot wait to go back. LOL Have fun!
Posted by:Mary |March 31, 2011 at 07:40 PMIt sounds obvious, but start getting your vaccinations ASAP. For some you will need shots spaced apart, so start now. Diseases like typhoid and Hep B are endemic in Vietnam and can be passed on. The CDC will have a list of recommended shots for travel to Vietnam. Protect yourself before you go so you enjoy the GORGEOUS street food! Only use major bank ATMs; our card got eaten by a real bank, but one that dealt with business not individuals. It was a huge pain, and basically un-fixable while abroad. Get a good guide book with Vietnamese and English names of the tourist attractions -- it makes it easier to show taxis where you are going (we found out that asking to go to the "Hanoi Hilton" meant we actually ended up at the Hilton hotel -- lesson learned!). Bring a business card from your hotel to help get back easily. Local tourist agents in Vietnam can be located in funky places, like the back of restaurants. Get your hotel to recommend one and use it for in-country trips; they can be a huge help and a major bargain. Have a BALL!
Posted by:Mary |March 31, 2011 at 08:24 PMDon't forget that you need to arrange your tourist Visa in advance. You will have to mail your passport to the Vietnamese consulate in Washington DC, I believe. Though I also think you can get rush Visas in Bangkok. Something to look in to.
We only spent a week in Hanoi and Halong Bay, but to get there, we flew Korean Air to Bangkok, then caught an Air Asia flight to Hanoi. If you're worried about money, I'd say find the cheapest flight you can to the cheapest hub in Asia, then use Air Asia, Tiger, or some other discount airline to get to Vietnam. If you book well in advance, the flights are very cheap.
We stayed in a fantastic hotel in Hanoi called Renezvous Hotel. It was only $30/night and it included free internet and breakfast. The breakfast was great too - every morning we had pho bo, juice, thick coffee with sweet milk, and fresh fruit. The staff is very helpful and speak excellent English, which helps when you're trying to navigate the confusing streets of the old city.
As for food... follow your nose! The best meal we had was a random stop on the street - marinated beef grilled tableside with fresh banh mi, tomato salad, and veggies. We were planning on visiting the famous Cha Ca Va Long that day, but we were so glad we decided to stop when the street smelled good. The food is incredible - it inspired me to buy Andrea's book the moment we returned to the States. Have fun - Vietnam may be my favorite place I've traveled to, and there is so so so much we missed.
Posted by:April |March 31, 2011 at 08:50 PMGreat advice and tips, ladies!
April: You are soooo right about that travel visa. I forgot that I'd posted some tips earlier on getting a visa from the Vietnam Consulate. Here's the page and I added it to the post too:
http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2008/03/vietnam-travel.html
I've sent my passport to them and it came back!
Posted by:Andrea Nguyen |March 31, 2011 at 09:30 PMWe just returned a few days ago from Vietnam. We spent about a month there. We started in Hanoi (Hanoi Imperial Hotel), two nights in Halong Bay on the Dragon Pearl junk, the overnight train to SaPa (SaPa Boutique Hotel), a homestay in TaVan with a minority family, Vietnam Airlines to Hue (Camilla Hotel), drove to HoiAn - my personal favorite city - (HoiAn Boutique Resort - on the beach, brand new, absolutely incredible), Cat Tien National Park (Forest Floor Lodge) - rather disappointing park, Saigon (Liberty Central - new hotel, very nice, great central location), then on the the Mekong Delta with another homestay. All in all, a wonderful trip. I feel like we saw the major places and had so many different experiences. We used a Vietnamese travel agent that we located online after much research. Her name is Ms. Ha with Vietland Discovery. She can be contacted at info@discovervietnam.com.vn. Beware - there are several copy-cat travel agencies. She is in DaNang. We emailed her with the locations we wanted to visit, the activities we wanted to do, and our dates. She arranged everything. We had English speaking guides and top-notch drivers at every place. Can't say enough good things about her. We made our international flight arrangements. She did everything else. Hope this helps you out. Please send any questions you might have.
PS - the highlight of the trip for me was cooking school with Ms. Vy at the Morning Glory Cooking School in Hoi An. Ms. Ha arranged a private lesson for me since I am a cooking instructor. I was in seventh heaven!
We spent three weeks in Vietnam and Cambodia in January. We used a Vietnamese travel agent--http://nguyenthiminhthuy.webs.com/contact.htm
I highly recommend Thuy. She'll work with you to create a personal trip with private guide and drive/car. The only way to go. Getting to Asia is the big bite of your budget. Once you get there food and lodging is inexpensive. Dollars are taken--and preferred--everywhere. I could write pages about the details of our trip, but there's plenty of good advice in the other emails and online. As suggested get your visas and innoculations ahead. (We opted not to get malaria pills because of common side effects.) Oh, the best part: the people! Kind, friendly and helpful. Don't miss this beautiful part of the world.
If you want to avoid the "touristy" Vietnam, I would suggest the Luxe Guides for Hanoi and HCM. If you want to use a travel agent, I highly recommend Exotissimo. They will hook you up without stops at the snake farms and junk shops. They can also take you up to just about any level of luxury you want.
I've been to Vietnam 9 times and I recommend hitting the spots that are a little out of the way:
Phu Quoc Island is amazing and isn't overrun with hotels yet. The La Veranda is one of my favorite hotels in Asia.
If you are staying in Saigon, a trip to Phan Thiet / Mui Ne is very easy. Only 4 hours by car. You can take the Sin Cafe bus for about $5!
Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi, Saigon are usually on people's lists. But try and go to Sapa or Mekong Delta to see how people really live in the countryside. They are both experiences that are very unique to Vietnam. The people are really sweet and prices are good.
If you are in Saigon, make sure you stop by Com Neiu Sai Gon. The food is fantastic there. Bia Hoi is fun to try, but there are a bunch of new beer halls where the beer is very good. They also have very tasty bar food. You will have a lot of fun. Hoa Vien is a good one. There is another across the street from Diamond Plaza, but I can't remember the name.
Also, if you get too hot, Highland Coffee is a good place to recharge. The coffee is expensive compared to local shops and the coffee used to be better. But they have good air conditioning and wifi.
One more thing for Saigon.... Get out of District 1! After you have seen the sights, find a really good place in District 3, which IMHO, is where things are happening now. Dong Khoi St. used to be a fun walk, but now it is filled with tourist shops.
Posted by:Bsquared2 |April 02, 2011 at 08:47 PMWow, I want another trip to Vietnam just to follow the tips above! My additions:
1. GO TO HOI AN. No regrets. (Dalat, HCMC, Hanoi & Nha Trang are also must do's.)
2. In HCMC, find a day tour to the Mekong Delta.
3. In Hanoi, take a day (or overnight) trip to Halong Bay.
4. Learn how to barter. It's a good skill for the markets.
5. If you're planning on visiting other countries while in SE Asia and then coming back into Vietnam, get a multi-use visa (trust me on this. Will save you many headaches and $$$).
6. Get used to the staring, esp if you're as "white as it gets". :) Not so much in the cities but if you go off the beaten track.
I'm jealous, Max. Hope you & your gf have a great time!
Posted by:Diana |April 03, 2011 at 10:28 AMOh, one more thing - bring Benadryl. I didn't find out until my last trip that I was allergic to rambutan (which is like a lychee). An ice pack (for my swelling face) and Benadryl pretty much saved me from a bad, bad ending.
On that note, try all the fruits! :) Seriously. Here's a nice guide on the fruit offerings in Vietnam:
http://www.ottsworld.com/blogs/fruity-vietnam/
My tips
...Any tours (Halong, Mekong, tunnels, etc) can be arranged for the next day from within Vietnam for a fraction of the price. Do not book anything like that from outside Vietnam. There are travel agents all over, it's incredibly easy.
...You can get a comfortable room with a private bathroom, daily maid service, and well located for $30 US. There's really no need to spend $150+ unless you need the super luxury.
...Splurge on the more expensive tours of Halong Bay
...A day is not long enough for Mekong Delta - overnight minimum 1 day, best 2 or 3. It takes 3-4 hours to get there and back from HCMC
...Watch and KNOW the US:dong exchange rate. You will often be quoted in US but pay in dong, which provides all kinds of opportunities for creative maths.
...Drink bia hoi at the 4 corners in Hanoi old quarter (and elsewhere).
Lastly - this is essential - eat as much as possible on the street and NOT in touristy cafes. Go to places that have lots of people (and therefore lots of turnover). The smaller the stool, the better the food.
Posted by:Sarah |April 03, 2011 at 11:02 AMWe tried to shop and eat at places where the money would go back to the craftsmen and staff. My addresses (below) might be out of date so double-check!
SHOPPING
-Craftlink: at the Ethnology Museum, and at 34 Vanmieu St. (East side of the square with the Temple of Literature)
-Vietnam Quilt Shop: 16 Hang Tre, eastern edge of the Old Quarter
-Hoa Sua Embroidery: 21D Ha Hoi Street (about 2 blocks south and one east of the Somerset Grand)
FOOD
-Hoa Sua Training School Restaurant: 28 A Ha Hoi Street
-KOTO ice cream (near the Temple of Literature)
Awesome information you have shared with us.You have included here all the travel related things with the Safety,Hotels,costs and all.So its such an helpful one.
Posted by:Pregnancy Clothes |April 03, 2011 at 10:47 PMthere are a lot of places there where one can relax itself and recharge again to visit the next one..:)
Posted by:J$ |April 04, 2011 at 06:16 AMIf you don't mind, guest house is relatively cheap and clean. I was in Saigon, Vietnam this past December. I stayed at guesthouse in district 1 (backpacker area). It's really safe and lively, there are many restaurant around that cater to westerner taste (go there if you miss the food from home) and it where all the tours meet so it's very convenient...all the major tourist attraction in the city is near by you can walk or take a short cab ride. And there is place nearby called Quan An Ngon - basically all the street food vendor indoor so if you afraid about the hygiene eating on the street, this is a good option and the food is authentic good.
Happy travel
Posted by:Trinh |April 04, 2011 at 07:40 PMLove that you've all pitched in. Thanks to Max, we've created a small repository of information about our travels to Vietnam.
I totally agree that staying in District 1 is not very exciting but expensive. I usually go to the edge of District 1 or District 3 in Saigon. The budget travel accommodation recommendations are greatly appreciated -- especially when the airfare is creeping up.
Benadryl: nice tip, Diane!
Posted by:Andrea Nguyen |April 05, 2011 at 08:56 AMMax, You will find it HOT in July especially in the south. But there are ways to beat the heat. Get up early and go for a walk around your neighbourhood while the day is fresh and cool. As a bonus you will get to interact with the many Vietnamese who are breakfasting/drinking coffee on the sidewalk before starting their day. Don't try to cram too much into your day - if it's hot go slow and if you find the heat overpowering consider a siesta in the middle of the day.
The Mekong Delta is a definite must as is Hoi An.
If you are interested in cooking the Red Bridge Cooking School in Hoi An will take you to an organic farm, the local open-air market and then back to their lovely place on the river to create some excellent dishes.
Posted by:Mary |April 05, 2011 at 08:38 PMI recently visited Thailand and did a cooking school in Chang Mai. I was lucky and have a sister who is a retired Delta employee and used a buddy pass that is also non-reservation. My experience is don't fly during the high volume time. We had no problem in March but sometimes the summer months are impossible to get around. I do know that southeast asia is very inexpensive when it comes to hotels and food.
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