I used to think that an affordable apartment in a desirable part of New York with a spacious, renovated kitchen was like an urban myth; you've heard of them, and know a few lucky folks who possess one, but you never thought it could happen to you.
I spent many, many weeks this fall hunting for a new apartment. I did not even have outrageous criteria. Yes, the kitchen should be bigger than a broom closet. It should also have a working stove that does not smell of leaking gas. It The counters should not have sticky patches with hovering flies. The roommate should be sane, and not terrified of having meat products in the refrigerator. You would be surprised how many apartments failed to pass this simple test.
Then I found it. A recently renovated top floor apartment in Park Slope with a kitchen that opens out to the living area, with tons of counter space, cabinet space, and natural light. The stove not only works but also has five burners. And I can afford the rent on a freelance writer's salary. I had to pinch myself a few times.
Still, there are caveats. There is no dishwasher. Or microwave. The fridge is arranged in a way that blocks one end of the cabinets. But when choosing New York as my home many years ago, I knew I had to give up certain things, such as modern conveniences and sensible layouts. Small appliances can be bought. To me, this kitchen is still close to perfect. As someone who has lived in 15 (yes, 15) different apartments in five cities since 2005, many of them tiny or depressing or both, it was good
to have a comfortable place to call home.
One of the first dinners I made at my lovely new kitchen was this beer-braised chicken. It was inspired by a wok-brased duck recipe in Martin Yan's Chinatown Cooking
Knowing I needed a robust sort of beer to withstand the Sriracha that will go in my sauce, I stopped in Biercraft on 5th Ave., a little wonderland of craft beers. The guy behind the counter recommended Avery Brewing Co.'s Ellie's Brown Ale, which has a lot of nuttiness, sweetness, and chocolate malt character. And, he added, it won't become bitter when boiled down like some other brown ales. Turns out, it's also great for sipping while you prepare the chicken.
The method to making this is similar to that for my Chicken Adobo. Sear the outside until brown, braise for 20 to 30 minutes, and add vegetables close to the end. It's easy and the braising makes your kitchen nice and toasty.
The one bad thing about my new apartment is that althought it's 40 degrees out, the central heating has still not turned on. Until that happens, I will be simmering a lot of meals on the stove.
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Beer-Braised Chicken with Sriracha
1 1/2 pounds chicken legs or drumsticks
2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Sauce:
1/2 cup dark ale (preferably a nutty one with a good amount of sweetness)
1/4 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or sherry
1/2 tablespoon hoisin sauce
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 small onion, sliced into strips
8 to 10 cremini mushrooms, stems discarded and caps quartered
2 to 3 teaspoons Sriracha
1 stalk scallion, thinly sliced
1. With a paper towel, pat the excess moisture from the chicken on all sides (otherwise, watch out for splattering oil when you sear the meat.)In a large wok or skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Sear the chicken on one side until the skin is light golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the chicken over and sear the other side for another 5 minutes.
2. Mix together the ingredients for the sauce and pour the sauce over the chicken. Reduce the heat to medium-low and allow everything to simmer for 20 to 25 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a separate pan, heat the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of oil over high heat. Stir-fry the onions and mushrooms briefly until the onions are aromatic and the edges are just starting to turn golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the Sriracha and cook for 30 seconds more. Transfer the vegetables to the pan with the chicken and mix well.
4. When the chicken is done simmering, transfer the contents of the pan to a large serving dish and garnish with scallions. Serve with rice.
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Other chicken recipes to try:
Spicy Chicken in Black Bean Sauce
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