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Sunday, October 30, 2011

Notes from the Air: Heading to Cuba

Hello from 30,000 ft in the air everyone! We’re headed to Cuba as part of a personal project that’s been in the works for a long time. Can’t spill the beans just yet, but we’re very anxious to share with you the reason for our personal journey here soon.

It feels as if we’ve been playing catch up over the last couple month. With working on the road in 5 states over the last 2 months, speaking at conferences in Utah & Nashville, 2 different workshops in Denver, and one in Los Angeles, not to mention shooting for clients in our studio when we actually were home, we’ve been in dire need of a personal trip.

So this Cuba trip is much needed to re-fuel the soul and stay creative on a personal level. It’s always been a dream for us to experience Cuba on an intimate and personal level. To be able to photograph and film this gorgeous country, the culture, people and food will be a dream finally coming true.

Stay tuned for all the images and videos,

diane and todd


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Chestnut Cake With Ganache Filling and Lacquer Glaze

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Love. Craft. and Honesty. An Apple Galette with Brown Butter

It has been coursing through my blood lately. It happens to many of us this time of year. The air grows cool and crisp, Halloween is just around the corner, and the desire for autumn’s comforts fill our bones. And the top of the comfort list lies the glorious apple. I’ve got to get my apple mojo on.

For me the apple craving began about a month ago. We had a shoot for one of Whole Foods local apple farmers. Few things compare to picking apples fresh off the tree and biting into that sweet crispness, tinged with touch of tartness.

Every time I pick an apple from a tree it brings me back to my childhood and our three apples trees growing by the house on the ranch. We’d pick and eat until our bellies were full. The sweet smell of the apples filling the autumn air. Then, filling our arms, we’d bring the horses their favorite treat.

I can still remember one of our colts first apple moment like it was yesterday. Doc, who had been born earlier that year, would watch all the other horses devour apple after apple with envy. As much as he would try, he couldn’t bite into the apples yet. They just kept slipping out of his mouth, spinning away.

After watching him struggle for a while, I decided to help him out. He still had that young colt jumpiness combined with an adorable curiosity. I eased within a few feet of him, then bit off a big chunk of apple. Holding out my hand with apple piece lingering on fingertips, Doc’s curiosity overwhelmed his nervousness.

He took the apple from my hand and experienced his first sweet bite. After a few more pieces he decided I was alright in his book. For most of his life, he was always a bit of a smart ass to catch. But not for me. Doc never forgot who helped him eat his first apples.

So after our Whole Foods shoot, the need for apples started to fill my lingering thoughts. It wasn’t long after that Diane and I took a West Coast roadtrip through California, Oregon, and finishing up in Seattle, Washington. Wandering through farmer’s markets and boutique grocers, buying up apples for our drives and explorations, the apples were rockin. So crisp, juicy, and sweet.

Up in Seattle we hooked up with Jennie from In Jennie’s Kitchen. Being the food fanatics we all are, and given the time of year and how good the local apples had been, talk soon fell to apples and all their glory. Even amongst the daily struggle to find a new normal after suddenly losing her husband a mere 2 months ago, the talk of food and cooking just lit Jennie up, exuding her love and warmth. She mentioned a Brown Butter Apple Pie she makes, and I knew without hesitation that I was going to have to make that as soon as I got home.

Jennie is one of those cooks, who I know after talking to them for even a moment about food, that their cooking is going to rock. Jennie, and the cooks and chefs I know like her, exude a certain culinary mojo. It is something I felt in my grandma, Diane, Michael Ruhlman, and chef Josef Centeno, among others. There is a particular love, sense of craft, and honesty to their approach to cooking. I trust their taste and have never been disappointed. These are good people to have in your life. And kitchen.

So after returning home from our road trip, I set out to make Jennie’s brown butter apple pie. Only I don’t like rolling out pie crust tops. I have serious pie envy for those able to create gorgeous pie tops. Martha Stewart I am not.

So I play to my strong suit. Rather than fight making the top, I opt for the rustic apple galette. Using a technique I learned from our pastry chef where I used to manage, I roll the dough out in between two sheets of plastic wrap. This allows you to roll the dough out quicker and thinner (my preference in pies) and still handle it easily.

The crust recipe I always use yields an amazing, buttery, flaky crust. I’ve yet to have another crust I prefer over it. I was torn whether to deviate from my home standard or use Jennie’s crust recipe. In the end I chose to stay with my usual recipe, but that was mostly due to the familiarity and ease I have with making it. I’ve no doubt hers is equally incredible.

The end result was nothing short of amazing. The best apple galette I’ve had. Partly due to the apples being so extraordinary at peak season, part great recipe, and part love. I had intended to add some Bourbon to the apple filling, but forgot to when cooking. I think I’m just going to have to do a little private taste off and make these galettes again.

-Todd

P.S. In the comments, Susan from The Wimpy Vegetarian asked about our favorite apple for the galette. It is such a great question, we’d like to pass it on to everyone and have you all tell what apples you like the most for pies, tarts, and galettes. Share your favorite baking variety and where you live or get them from so we all can get a regional perspective. We can all learn from each other.  —  We usually use Fujis, sometimes mixed with Granny Smiths. But here in So Cal, our apple selection isn’t as extraordinary as many cooler climate areas. Can’t wait to hear everyone else’s favorite.

Print This Recipe Print This Recipe
Brown Butter Apple Galette Recipe
Filling is based off of In Jennies’ Kitchen Brown Butter Apple Pie recipe. It may be surprising to see a lack of spices, but as Jennie mentions in her post, it allows for the “intense flavor of roasted apples” be highlighted. After making the filling this way, I agree with her completely. For the type of apples, try to find a nice crisp, sweet-tart apples. Granny Smiths are a classic choice. We often use Fujis. Other good varieties are Jonathan, Jonagold, Pippin, Gravenstein, Braeburn, and Pink Lady Apples.
Makes 3 – 8? Galettes or can be adapted for 2 – 10? Galettes.
Crust Ingredients 2 1/4 c (355g) All-Purpose Flour1/2 T (8g) Salt1/2 lb (225g) cold Unsalted Butter1/4 c (70g) cold Lard1/3 c (80ml) Ice Water, approx.Heavy Cream, to brush crustpinch of Coarse Sugar or Turbinado Sugarpinch of Sea Salt flakes or Kosher Salt

Filling Ingredients

1 1/2 c or 3 sticks (340g) unsalted Butter9 med. Apples, peeled, cored, and sliced thin1/3 c (65g) Sugar1/2 c (100g) packed Light Brown Sugar1/4 c (30g) Flour1 1/2 T (22ml) fresh squeezed Lemon Juice

Make the Crust Dough

Combine flour and salt on a work surface or bowl.Cut up the butter and lard into 1/2? pieces, then add it to the flour and pinch down to pea sized pieces with your fingers.Add ice water and mix just until the dough comes together. It should be a rough looking, lumpy ball with chunks of butter.Divide into 3 even balls then flatten each ball (helps expedite the chilling process), then wrap and put to rest in fridge for at least 30 min.

Preheat Oven to 425°F

Make Filling (after dough is chilled)

Place the apples, sugars, and flour in a large bowl. Toss well until sugar and flour evenly coat the apples.Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Butter will foam, then settle down. Continue to cook and the now separated solids will begin to brown and develop a toasty, nut aroma. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 5-10 minutes.Pour browned butter over apples (scraping the pan to get all the tasty, toasty bits). Add fresh lemon juice, and toss apples to completely coat with browned butter and lemon juice. Set aside while you roll out the dough.

Finish Making Galette and Bake

Roll out the dough. Take one ball out at a time (leaving the others in the refrigerator until you are ready to roll each one) and place dough between two sheets of plastic wrap and roll out. Occasionally peel back plastic wrap and re-lay wrap on dough to help remove wrinkles. Roll to about 1/8? thick and evenly round. Remove top layer of plastic wrap, and quickly but carefully flip dough onto a baking sheet so the remaining plastic wrap is now face up. Remove last layer of plastic wrap.Place 1/3 of the apple filling into the center of the rolled out dough. Spread apples into an even circle, leaving a border of 2? of bare dough. Fold dough up over apples, creasing every couple inches. Repeat rolling and filling process with other two balls of dough and remaining apples mix.Brush crusts of dough with heavy cream. Lightly sprinkle turbinado or coarse sugar on crust. Very lightly sprinkle a pinch of sea salt flakes on crust.Bake for 20 minutes, then turn temperature down to 350°F. Continue to bake for another 30-35 minutes or until crust is golden brown.

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Red-cooked Pork Belly (红烧肉)

Red-braised Pork BellyRed-braised Pork Belly pictures (1 of 7)

Shanti is a good friend of mine, we met each other through her husband Peikwen Cheng—my ex-colleague and the most talented photographer I know. Based in Beijing, Shanti travels all over China meeting with local families to learn about authentic home-style Chinese cooking. Her many journeys are documented on ShowShanti. If you’re a fan of local culture and story-telling, you have to check out ShowShanti. She is also the proud designer of her gorgeous and colorful Chinese aprons, which you can enter to win. Don’t miss this scrumptious red-cooked pork belly recipe, which she learned from real Chinese home cooks in China, and remember to start following her adventures on ShowShanti.com.

When I first came to China, I didn’t know about Chinese food any more than what I had eaten at countless Chinese restaurants in California. Typical dishes my family and I would order included egg flower soup ???, barbecued-pork steamed buns ???, spareribs in black bean sauce, barbecued pork, roast pork, Cantonese roast duck, glutinous rice stuffed with pork and steamed in lotus leaves ???, Ma Po tofu, and pork fried rice. Those dishes were a great beginning for my American Chinese food repertoire. Upon living in China, I encountered many more dishes; too many to list and yet so many more to try.

The dish that quickly made an impression on me was hóngshao ròu (???, red-cooked pork belly)—cubed cuts of pork belly braised in soy sauce and fragrant spices with fat that tenders the lean and falls apart in the mouth. The savory-sweet combination seduces the taste buds, rendering me addicted to this dish for life. As I write this, I wonder, “Is it time for me to stew another pot of this simple dish that waited nearly three decades to find my appetite?”

Red-braised Pork Belly

I learned a version from one Shanghai family (Chen Chen’s hóngshao ròu recipe) that had neither chili nor spice; I felt something was missing. I’d learned hóngshao yu (red-cooked fish), hóngshao shanyu (red-cooked eel), hóngshao tuji (red-cooked organic chicken), and hóngshao zhuti (red-cooked pig’s feet); all of which included fragrant spices like star anise, chilies, Sichuan peppercorn, cassia bark, and black cardamom. I prefer hóngshao ròu with chilies, Sichuan peppercorn, star anise, and cassia bark. Hóngshao ròu is a simple dish and deserves every spice and minute you can give to its perfection.

After making different variations of hóngshao ròu, I have decided upon a medley of flavors that makes my own family claim this recipe a favorite. As with all home-style recipes, you learn someone’s original recipe then you make it your own. Stick to my recipe a few times then stray with the muse of your own taste buds. Serve hóngshao ròu with rice and Chinese broccoli. Enjoy!

(Click on Page 2 for the Red-cooked Pork Belly Recipe)

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Rice Cake Soup / 떡국 / Ddeokguk

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Saturday, October 29, 2011

Wallmonkeys Peel and Stick Wall Decals - Kimchi - Removable Graphic

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  • Monday photos: Sanma (pacific saury) is the quintessential fall fish

    sanmafresh.jpg

    The kanji characters for sanma, the Japanese name for the pacific saury, are ??? - “fall sword fish”. A perfect fit, since the fish do look like small silver swords or knives, and fall is the peak season for them.

    For a long time, sanma was regarded as an inexpensive, everyday fish, eaten in the lean days before payday. The very last movie directed by the great Yasujiro Ozu, best known in the west for his movie Tokyo Story (Tokyo monogatari), is called Sanma no aji - The Taste of Sanma (English title: An Autumn Afternoon). Sanma was, especially in the early 1960s when the movie was made, a homey, humble, everyday thing to eat - a symbol of ordinary family life. Nowadays all fish including sanma is getting pricier, but sanma is still one of Japan’s favorite fish. Whole grilled sanma (the way it’s most often eaten) also has a slight bitter flavor from the guts, which are usually not removed before cooking - many people like the bitterness - which is a reference to the bittersweet nature of the movie.

    Sanma has the oily, rich taste that is characteristic of ‘blue’ fish such as mackerel, herring and bluefish. But compared to these, especially bluefish, it has a much lighter taste. Sanma digest their food a lot faster than most fish - it takes only half an hour or so for food to pass through its system - so the fish has less of a chance to pick up any off-putting odors or tastes. As the weather gets cold, sanma, like other cold-water fish, put on a lot of fat, which is what makes it particularly tasty right now. Fish oil is said to be very good for you, containing omega-3s and the like. Plus, sanma is considered to be a sustainable fish that has not been overfished as of yet.

    Really fresh sanma can be made into sushi neta or sashimi, but the best way to cook it in my opinion is to simply grill it with a little bit of salt sprinkled on. This is called sanma no shioyaki (shioyaki means salt-grilled).

    sanmacooked.jpg

    The easiest way for anyone to make sanma no shioyaki these days is with the grill of an oven. You may want to try the picturesque method of grilling on a traditional wire fish grill, but this can make your kitchen very smoky. (In the olden days, fish were only grilled outdoors, on little hibachi.) The best accompaniment to grilled sanma in my mind is daikon oroshi, grated daikon radish with a drizzle of soy sauce, but you can us a squeeze of citrus if you prefer.

    Allow for 1 whole sanma per person. As I mentioned above, sanma cooked in this way is usually not gutted, so be sure you obtain very fresh fish.

    Heat up your oven’s grill. Line your grill pan with aluminum foil, and brush lightly with some oil (this prevents any sticking).

    Sprinkle both sides of the fish with salt, lightly. Leave the fish for at least 10 minutes, then pat off any moisture that comes to the surface with paper towels.

    Put the fish on the foil. Grill until the surface is a little bit blistered and starting to blacken in spots - don’t let it get completely black. This should take about 8 minutes, depending on the strength of your grill. Carefully turn over the fish, and cook on the other side for another 5 minutes (peek as it’s cooking to make sure it doesn’t burn).

    Serve with a mound of finely grated daikon radish and a drizzle of soy sauce, or alternatively a wedge of lemon, lime, or other citrus (in Japan you’d use yuzu, kaposu or daidai).

    Let’s play a little game ^_^. As I mentioned above, director Yasujiro Ozu used sanma as a typical homey, familier, humble (cheap) dish. What food or dish might you use instead to mean the same thing?


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